Two spring outfits

I made these two cowl neck tops a few months ago, but felt compelled to create some cute skirts to wear with them as the weather warmed up.  Shazam!  Two new outfits for spring, which can be mixed and matched!

The cowls are both a mash up of Sewaholic's Renfrew top (view C) and an elongated waistband from Seamwork's Astoria top.  I sewed the teal version first and the neckline is a bit narrow, so I slashed and spread the cowl pattern to make it a bit wider for the pink one.   See, bigger!

As for the skirts, the first is a super simple knit dirndl with an elastic waist.  Nothing fancy, except the pretty fabric :)  I didn't even put in pockets (poor decision, as usual).

The second is a City Stroll wrap skirt from Liesl & Co.   I've made it once before (in cashmere!) and really like the simplicity of the pattern.  This version is in denim for a more casual look that coordinates well with lots of tops.

I topstitched the skirt with a light gray thread (sorry, no super close ups!), but it is not lined like the wool one I made previously.

The photos I have of this garment are not great, but I DO have some action shots!  While the skirt can be a bit indecent in certain situations, it does cover under most poses:

I typically wear a skirt pin my wool one for work, but I like to play fast and loose on my days off.  

Now the weather actually needs to warm up for real, so I don't freeze without tights!  

Party skirt in silk gazar with drapey wool top

Back in Paris, I had the opportunity to visit a special Balenciaga exhibit at musée Bourdelle.  The theme was black: the garments were primarily black, usually displayed in black boxes, and some were even behind black curtains that you had to lift to view the dresses.  The pieces were stunning, naturally, but what was particularly intriguing to me was that many of them were made of silk gazar (a fabric invented by Balenciaga).  Despite taking two Fabric analysis course and have decades of sewing and touching fabric experience, I had never even heard of silk gazar.  The instructor in Paris described the fabric as being "silent".  Whether that was a translational issue or truly the fabric made no noise when the wearer moved, I didn't know at the time, but I felt compelled to find out.

A quick search at Mood revealed some options and I chose this deep navy blue silk gazar.  The fabric reminds me entirely of fine linen with it's crispness and hand, though it doesn't wrinkle quite as badly.  It was slightly translucent, but the structure and body of the fabric was lovely.  Apparently, it softens considerably when washed, but I wanted to keep the stiffness for my garment.

Originally, I had planned this outfit for Christmas, but when that didn't happen, I hoped to sew it for my husband and my anniversary on the 28th of December, which also didn't pan out.  I ended up sewing the skirt the day before New Year's Eve (and the top on NYE) for that night out and then for my brother's wedding a few days later.

I went with this simple box-pleated middy-length skirt from Just Patterns.  I sewed a size 36, but I should have cut a size 34 (or maybe smaller).  I ended up omitting the pockets when I had to resew the side seams (poor decision, especially when I had to carry tissues at the wedding!).  Since the fabric was a bit see-through and lightweight for the winter,  I made a simple straight lining (with some tucks at the waistband)  with what I had around that matched, which was a 4-ply silk I've had for a while.  Kind of a decadent lining, but it worked perfectly well.   The pattern was well-drafted and for only $3 for the digital copy, it's a complete steal.

For the blouse, I've recently become a bit obsessed with the color emerald (you know, 5 years after it was the "Pantone color of the year" :) and found the lovely stretch wool jersey.  The fabric was ideal for a drapey top, so I used the draped bodice of the Bronx dress pattern by SBCC, extending the length to hip-level.  I should have made the top a bit more form-fitting, but it works well enough.

I'm pretty much ecstatic about this outfit.  It feels fun and fancy (especially the length of the skirt with some kitten-heel booties), but not too frilly, and the colors are so festive.  One issue though, I can't do a whole lot of eating while wearing the skirt--that waistband is *quite* fitted.  

Oh!  In case you've read all this way to find out if silk gazar is silent....well, it's definitely quieter than you'd expect for a fabric this crisp, but I'm not sure I'd call it silent.  It's still pretty rad, though, and I'd happily work with it again!

Astoria sweater + swishy skirt = new fave outfit

This rayon from Britex caught my eye, and I just couldn't shake it.  It's not a typical color palette or print for me, but I had to have it and I knew exactly what I'd make with it: a dirndl skirt.  A dirndl is not my favorite silhouette, but with this fabric, it all just felt like good fun for the summer.

The pattern for the skirt was self-drafted, using the Maritime Shorts waistband as a rough guide.  I getting old and fluffy about the mid-section, so I just can't handle a non-contoured waistband anymore.  The rest of the skirt is literally just two full-widths of the fabric (the back one cut in half for the center back seam/zipper).  

The lightweight rayon allowed for huge volumes of gathers without being very bulky, which makes the skirt extra swingy.  I accidentally walked in front of a fan at a dinner party and nearly had a "Marilyn moment".    But it's fun, and super light--perfect for summer.  

Of course there was only one top option in my wardrobe to wear with this circus-tent print of a skirt, and I didn't love it, so I bought the Astoria sweater pattern (Seamworks).  The slightly cropped, slightly vintage, and really simple design were a prefect match for the skirt.  Love the wide waistband and 3/4 sleeves! 

I made the top in a light-medium weight French terry (not sure where I got it), but I think it must be a blend because it has a lovely sheen to it.  

Applying what I've learned from other Seamwork/ Colette patterns, I made some alterations to the armscye and sleeve pieces, and took in the sides a smidge, but otherwise sewed a straight size 0.  While I would normally do a petite-adjustment in the bodice, I did not and the length was just perfect (For anyone taller than 5'1", you may want to lengthen the bodice a tad.)

I really love how the wide waistband angles out ever so slight at the hem.  It makes a world of difference keeping the top from creeping upward.  The neckband doesn't lay flat, but I think that adds to the vintage feel of the top.

I timed myself once I started and it took 50 minutes to sew--true to the claim that it's an hour project. (And even though I did it all just this morning, I cannot remember if that includes cutting time. Sheesh.)

While the sweater is a bit warm for out current "heat wave" in NorCal and in the depths of summer, it will be perfect for the other 340 days of the year.  I'm already scouting other rayons for more swishy skirts.

Pockets!  It's a little hit or miss with pocket height at the side seam when I'm drafting myself, but these are at a good level.  

So here's the problem with a skirt as "distinctive" (read: loud) as this: I can't wear it all the time!  Kind of a bummer.  I'll be wearing it as much as is socially acceptable :)  

** The fabric was purchased with an allowance from Britex, thereby enabling my addiction to fabric!  

50 shades of gray (topstitching)

And by 50, I mean 3...I was a lazy, lazy sewer and didn't change out my bobbin when I realized that it was not the same as my thread, and then when I ran out of the thread, I didn't have the same color--so yeah, three shades of gray thread were used and you can see ALL of them as topstitching in various locations.  I suck, but I've already worn the skirt so I clearly don't care too much about it!

I've used this pattern (vintage Butterick 4309) once before, and I wear that skirt quite frequently.  It is a bit heavier, so it can span 3 out of 4 seasons here in NorCal.  For this version, however, I wanted to make something more versatile, in a lighter weight fabric for the summer.  And after learning so much about fibers and fabrics in my current Fabric Analysis class at WVC, I ended up being wooed by a chambray Tencel (darn, sold out!) from Mood.  I've definitely never worked with Tencel before, and I don't do manufactured fibers very often, but this was a pretty easy-to-handle substrate.  It was a bit lighter than I expected, and not as wrinkle-resistant as this fabric is generally know for, but I think it makes a good wrap skirt. I can see some faint pilling on the inside already, so I don't know what to make of that.  I'm skeptical about manufactured fibers, so I'll be critically evaluating the longevity of this one for sure.

So on a normal day, this skirt would have taken 2 hours, tops, to sew, but I spent at least that long just adjusting the fit.  For a wrap skirt, that's just dumb!  The pockets weren't laying right, so I had to rip them out and redo them multiple times.  I'm not sure the pattern was drafted to account for the fact that the skirt will actually wrap around a body, so I'll make some adjustments in the future.

Oh, I also lost the waistband pattern piece, so I had to redraft.  I opted for a slightly narrower waistband for both stylistic and fabric conservation reasons.

I've got so many projects in the works, now that I'm done teaching for a while.   I'm excited to be able to spend more time at my machines, and I've got an actual spreadsheet of all the projects I have to complete.  Now if only I can stick to my proposed deadlines!

Katie of The Creative Counselor is planning a Back 2 Basics week in the second half of April.  This skirt is a workhorse-type of basic in my wardrobe, so I'm getting a bit of a jump on the it all!

My winter uniform

I should have titled this post "4 skirts from the same pattern + 1 with a slight variation".  However, the reason I sewed 5 skirts in the past 1-2 months is due to a "perfect storm" of three independent events:  on-going discussion I've been having with my good friend of mine + an epiphany I had recently + a tear-inducing haircut, which all added up to = my winter uniform 2016.

My friend Edie has been talking a lot about the idea of a wardrobe uniform.  At first I was very much against this idea--wearing the same thing every day? Gah!--but then I started to like the idea, especially if the uniform was something I could sew (preferably fast).  A tried and true pattern to create an entire wardrobe?  Hmm....

So the epiphany part.  Even though it's not really cold in Northern California in the winter, it still looks silly to wear dresses or skirts with bare legs.  But I hate tights, so I was in a bind.  Until I "discovered" boots.  Boots!  The missing link to wearing skirts and dresses in the winter without looking like an idiot.  I purchased 2 pairs to add to the pair I already owned.

And then there was that day I got a terrible haircut that was so embarrassing that I wore a scarf everyday for 3 weeks, and my uniform was born: straight skirt (from self-drafted, tried and true pattern), fine-gauge sweater, boots, and a scarf.  I almost feel like I should apologize to my students for looking the same every day, but I'm not really sorry.

All of these skirts (except the one noted) are sewn from the exact same, self-drafted pattern that I used to make this skirt for my Patternmaking II class.  You can even watch a video of Tiina instructing her classes how sew it.  I made none of the other garments, except the white "necklace" made from an entire skein of cashmerino wool knitted into an i-cord and then fanagled into a necklace.

You want pictures, eh?

The first skirt is made from vintage viscose yarn-dyed woven fabric, with rayon Bemberg lining.  It's very lightweight and lovely, and will transition to spring well (with cute flats and a short-sleeved top).

Skirt 2 was actually my variation.  I lowered the waistline by an inch, created a contoured waistband, flared the skirt slightly and added a center front seam (which I top stitched).  Boden was a major inspiration for this skirt, which is in 100% wool, with rayon Bemberg lining.

Skirt 3 was made for the unfortunate event of my grandfather's funeral.  I own almost no black clothing, so I was grateful I had a quick pattern I could whip out to make something.  I did wear this with tights--super thick, heavy Smartwool ones--to brave the -20F temps of NY.  The fabric is amazing: vintage black silk, in a subtle plaid pattern.  It's so subtle probably no one can see it.   (Note: for the funeral, I had a black sweater and scarf.)

The waistband was cut from the same fabric with which I sewed a tie for my grandfather and in which he was buried.  I feel so grateful I can sew, so I can do that kind of stuff.  I was also pleased to have been able to press this skirt in my late grandmother's sewing room.  She would have probably been unhappy with my plaid matching, but I think she would have approved of the skirt otherwise :)

While buying the black fabric, I gave in to a temptation I've had for years for this nubby, Chanel-inspired vintage red and cream plaid fabric.  At $19/ yard, I don't know why I waited so long (only a yard is needed, after all!).  I lined this 4th skirt with a heavyish 4-ply silk, because why not?  

The final, 5th skirt came about as I was moving my unsewn winter fabrics back into storage and taking out my summery fabrics from last year in preparation for a new season of sewing.  I remembered wanting to make a pencil skirt from this crazy vintage Hawaiian barkcloth after sewing a pair of shorts a while ago.  This one is lined with rayon Bemberg.   Notice--no boots!  We've had a week of 70s, so I think I can go back to heels or flats for another 8 months.

I've got construction of this skirt down to 2.5 hours, from fabric cutting to hand-stitched hem.  Boom. Unfortunately, in a month I'll be done with teaching and will need another uniform.  Maybe a closet full of these or wrap skirts with boatneck Ts?