Granville Shirt by Sewaholic

Collared, cuffed, button down shirts.  They are a little bit outside my wardrobe comfort zone, to be honest.  They feel a bit masculine to me, and I like pretty.  But, I know I should own some, so I was pleased that Sewaholic released a version with some details I could appreciate: the Granville.

My main beef with button down shirts?  Not enough waist definition.  This pattern style solves that problem with princess seams in the back and significant waist shaping at the side seams.  Enough that I could easily (and very flatteringly) tuck it into pants without looking like a balloon on top.

The sleeve width is narrow and flattering, with no gathers at the wrist.  I know that seems like an insignificant thing, but no extra fabric at the wrist makes for a much more attractive garment, in my opinion :)

I sewed a straight size 2, with some petite alterations.  However, for my next version, I'll shorten the length above the waist, instead of where indicated on the pattern (below the waistline). I also shortened the sleeves by about 2" (which was perhaps 1/2" too much).  I made the initial shortening before cutting out the fabric, but realized they needed additional reduction after sewing on the cuffs. Thankfully, I had enough fabric to recut the cuffs.  This shortened the sleeve placket, but I think it looks just fine.  In the next iteration, I may also reduce the hip flare a bit.

I really like this pattern.  A lot.  Some alterations for a personal fit and construction directions aside (next time, I'll construct the sleeve placket and collar differently than instructed), I am most definitely planning a second.  And next time, I'm really going for it with Liberty cotton, if that gives you an indication of how highly I consider the quality of the pattern :)  Several of the Glenjade colorways would be lovely.

Oh, speaking of fabric!  This is Marc Jacobs shirting from Mood Fabrics (no longer available).  It's light and pretty and the print is a little retro.  I bought it to make an unspecified top a while ago, but since it was pretty inexpensive ($15 for 1.5 yards), I used for this wearable muslin here.  Which reminds me--I made the top (with a second set of cuffs) in 1.5 yards, so that's good to know when I'm shelling out the big $/yard.  

Here's how I wore it, with a bright orange sweater (from Anthro, a few years ago), cuffed-up jeans and maryjanes.  And here is where I start to see the utility of collared, cuffed and button down shirts!

Resewlution 2015, January garment #2

Collar Confection blouse in dotted silk

For my last-of-the-year Britex blogger project, I chose the pattern first: the unusual and lovely design from Decades of Style, the Collar Confection blouse.  The blouse design is interesting and a bit more challenging than a basic top, but still very doable!  The blouse style dictates a fabric with drape, but it also must be fairly opaque because there are facings along the armholes.  This midweight dotted ivory silk fits the bill and, in my humble opinion, is the ideal fabric for this top!

As strongly suggested by the pattern designers, I made a muslin before cutting into my lovely silk.  It was not obvious how I would do a small bust adjustment for this top, so I opted instead to use the size the correlated with my bust, and instead of grading out to the larger waist and hip size that I needed, I reduced the dart intakes.  This reduced the bust-to-waist ratio, which more or less accomplishes the SBA that I needed.  The ease of the original design seemed unsuitable for wearing as an untucked blouse (though perfect for tucking into a high waisted pencil skirt!), so I increased the overall ease at the hips as well.

The main glorious feature of this blouse is the lovely, drapey collar.  It folds over from a faced back neckline into a graceful peter-pan style. The width of the neckline and spread of the collar make it perfect for wearing with a v-neck cardigan.  How sweet is that collar?  

The other distinctive feature of the blouse is the split cap sleeves.  They aren't exactly a tulip (the flaps don't overlap each other), but are created with a curved hem and facings.

I'm a bit self-conscious of my broad shoulders, so this sleeve style doesn't help that too much, but I love how unusual and pretty it is!

For the button placket, I went with these satin-covered tuxedo buttons (1/2" size), and they couldn't be any more perfect.  The semi-matte sheen of the fabric-covered buttons matches the silk and they suit the blouse style just right.

Finishing the inside of the blouse was (relatively) simple with the help of one of Laura Mae's favorite notions--rayon seam binding (her tutorial is here).  I finished the raw edges after sewing the blouse because of all the facings and curved sleeve hems.  I'm still working on perfecting that technique (read: my inside seam finishes don't look perfect!), but at least the easily fraying silk is contained!  This is the shoulder seam between the neckline and facing of the sleeve (below), but I also used rayon seam binding on the side seams.

Overall, I'm thrilled with this new blouse.  If you are tempted to make the Collar Confection blouse, I cannot recommend this fabric strongly enough, but a pretty rayon would also work well.

Thank you, as always, to Britex for providing the fabric, notions (including matching silk thread--the buttonholes look extra special!) and pattern.

Happy sewing to you all in the New Year!  

Resewlution 2014, December garment #3

Self-drafted blazer!

See this blazer?  I designed, drafted and sewed it myself!  And since I'm no longer actually attending lecture (conflicts with my teaching schedule), I'm using the book and my professor's office hours to get the job done!  (By the way, here she is, walking through the construction of the jacket on YouTube.  She's an amazing sewist!)

This most recent project for my patternmaking class isn't due until this Thursday, but since I had all of last Friday to sew without kids or lectures to write,  I started and finished it in about 9 hours straight  + an hour or two making adjustments yesterday and today.

The pattern itself was based on a jacket sloper, which was based on a torso sloper that was altered from a bodice sloper of my own measurements.  Phew!  It was a lot of work to even get to the point where I could start making the jacket pattern (hence my radio silence over the past few weeks)!  I based my design on this much more stylish jacket from Boden.  I liked the armhole princess lines, flap pockets, and rounded hemline.  Clearly, getting my vision into a flat pattern is going to take a little work :)

The style itself has a two-piece sleeve with semi-faux vents and is fully lined.

As for the fabrication...well...for the assignment, we were supposed to sew the jacket in muslin, but clearly that wasn't going to be worth my precious time, so I sewed it up in some vintage 100% cashmere wool I purchased last year for a steal, and silk lining fabric from Britex.  The lining is a bit on the crazy side, but I kind love it.

The buttons are leather, slightly domed with a shank, also from Britex. 

I made some fit adjustments during construction, taking the shoulders in 1/2" on each side and reducing the princess seams all around by 1/4" each.  The fit could use some additional help (reduce the chest and shoulder width more, and I think the back, too, since it seems to have some vertical lines that I only saw in these photos!).

Over the weekend, I had the opportunity to meet up with some fabulous Bay Area sewists (I'll be adding a blog list of the locals soon).  Among the very talented group was Beth, from SunnyGal Studio, a jacket sewing expert.  She gave me some excellent tips for improving the overall look of the jacket.  So, when I got home, I unpicked part of both sleeves to make them more smooth (that right one could still use some work, sorry Beth!), added sleeve heads (made out of some loose weave linen) and "clapped" as many seams and hems as I could.  

Here is my make-shift clapping tool and sleeve press board.  Yes, that's a tunnel from my son's train set--the rounded top actually works really great!

Overall, I'm super pleased with my finished product and with a few more minor tweaks, I have a great go-to blazer pattern.  And, I have enough leftover cashmere and silk for a matching skirt!  You know, so I can really work that professorial vibe.

My littlest man was "helping" with the photos!

Next up for class is drafting trousers from measurements--I'll be making the sloper, instead of modifying one like usual.  Looking forward to it!

Sewing Resewlution 2014, October garment #1.  Wow, just got that in under the wire!

Go get some fabric for 30% off!

Okay, I know this notice is coming mere hours before the end of the day, but I've been at a wedding New Orleans for a long weekend, so hopefully we can all understand the reason for the delay :) Anyhow, Britex is having a 30% off sale on EVERYTHING on the website (and in person, if you can manage to get to the city) until midnight tonight (PST).  

Here's what I bought (all for Pattern making class projects for the rest of the semester):

Leather buttons and silk lining for my upcoming jacket.

Lovely stretch wool for trousers.

Wool for a full suit.

Guys, by the end of December, I'll have drafted a skirt (done, here), lined jacket, trousers, and bathing suit.  And the final project is a full suit.  A suit!  I can't wait until I acquire the skills necessary for that!

Patent leather buttons

No, I haven't dropped off the face of the earth--just busy with a new class and a big project for Britex! The absolutely drop-dead gorgeous patent leather buttons, above, have a little something to do with it :) With a professional development workshop at SFSU on Saturday at 11, was waiting at the door of Britex before it opened at 10 a.m. and raced up to the 3rd floor.  A super kind and helpful employee (didn't catch her name, but she had beautiful pink hair!) helped me pick out this selection and I was out of the store by 10:13, arriving at the classroom with 5 minutes to spare--very exciting!

My garment for Britex is finished and I'll post about it around the 1st of November.  Any guesses as to what it is? :)