Bowline sweater 2.0

This is another repeat, but it's been over a year and a half since I made the first version.  I'm always on the lookout for a different pattern--something that is interesting and unusual, but still wearable.  The first time I made the Bowline sweater from Papercut Patterns, I wasn't sure I had constructed it properly, so I wanted to give it another go.  To tell the truth, I'm still not sure I've sewn the pleat over the shoulder correctly again! 

The fabric is a nice medium weight cotton/ lycra  (on sale right now, and no, I'm not an affiliate!) from Girl Charlee.  I originally bought it to make a bodysuit, and it would be a good weight for that too, and I may have enough leftover for a short-sleeved version.  

I sized down to an XXS from my first version and the fit is a bit better.  I still feel like I look a bit pregnant (I'm NOT!) from the side because of the excess fabric from the pleating, but it's not too terrible.  Actually, this top would make an awesome maternity shirt in the early months!

The top is comfortable and comes together pretty quickly (after studying the instructions for a while!), but I'm not sure I love it.  The pleating doesn't lay in a way that is pleasing to me, but if it's on my body and I'm not looking in a mirror, I guess I don't care so much.  Has anyone else had better luck?

I've been on a knitting kick lately (easier to do while vegging on the couch in the winter!), so you can spot one of my creations in the photos here.  I have to block a second hat, but then I'll give the details of both.  :)

Two totally casual tops (Burda 6590)

As always, it was literally impossible to make only one of these tops.  When a garment takes 1 hour, tops, to make and is this comfortable, I need many of them in my life.  This time around, I was filling a void in my casual wardrobe where I needed a long-sleeved, comfy top under which I could wear some kind of base layer.  (Even in Northern California, I am constantly cold!) 

The pattern is Burda 6590 and it couldn't be easier.  Front, back, neckband and waistband.  No separate sleeve piece!  For alterations, I reduced the length of the sleeve part of the bodice and added a wide wristband.    

The first here is this textured poly-cotton sweater knit (unfortunately no longer available here).  Despite being a sweater knit, it's a bit on the airy side, so an undershirt or cami is good underneath.  It's comfortable and pretty, I think, and I love the scallops.  

The second is a cotton sweater knit fabric from Style Maker Fabrics (though also sold out!).  It's a really good weight--not too heavy, but nicely substantial.  Again, I added wristbands to make the cuffs and shortened the overall length of the sleeves, but otherwise sewed the pattern as designed.

I think I might have enough versions of this style, but it's such a great pattern that I know that if I see some fab fabric I'll definitely whip up another.    

Nettie bodysuit for the Fall

I've sewn a bunch of garments since returning from my Paris trip--three dresses, a few tops, a skirt, prototype pants for my class--but I just haven't had a chance to document most of them.  So, this bodysuit here isn't a rare finished project, it's just one of the few I've actually taken photos of!  Actually, I tried it on after finishing to make sure the final product looked good and just went ahead and set up my tripod for the pics.  Efficiency!

I have a couple of garments that I was having trouble finding tops to go with--a high waisted skirt that I made as a tester for Blank Slate (above) and a few cute wrap skirts (here and here).  It occurred to me that a bodysuit would go well with both types of skirts.  So I bought one.  And while it's super adorable and awesome, it wasn't cheap and I had to employ my sewing machine to alter the crotch depth anyhow.  I've made bathing suits, so it was sheer laziness that caused me to take so long to just buy a pattern and sew a darn bodysuit.  (Which is lazy unto itself because I've actually drafted a bodysuit pattern in my past and I just didn't feel like sizing it down.)

Anyhow, laziness aside, I bought the Nettie bodysuit pattern and cut out the size 2, grading down to 0 at the hips.  I quickly realized that the back pattern piece would be way too narrow for my broad back and redrafted the back pattern to add width at the armholes and center back (about 2.5 inches at the widest point!).  I'm so happy I did because the original version would have been uncomfortably tight.

Actually, the entire bodysuit is a bit tight.  It could be my fabric choice, which is stretchy, but not SUPER stretchy.  I may try with a different fabric, but sizing up wouldn't hurt either.  It's absolutely wearable as is, so I'm not too upset about it.

There are a variety of options for the front and back necklines, but the low front was too low and the high too high for me.  I drafted my own Goldilocks neckline :)  It looks graceful but not too revealing. 

I love the low leg holes.  They're the best!  My butt is covered!  I used three snaps for the crotch, not at all following the instructions (and cutting off about 2" on the crotch length).  The best part about sewing bodysuits (or bathing suits or underwear) is being able to stretch the ribbing or elastic where you want it.  I always pull it a little tighter in the part that's going under my butt and less tight near the hips and crotch. 

Overall, I'm pretty thrilled with my bodysuit.  I can imagine wearing it a lot this fall, under a wrap sweater like this:

Or maybe just prancing around like this:

That's totally cool these days, right?

Two fit + flare dresses

Again, I couldn't help but make two of the same pattern!  This time the pattern is the Bronx dress from SBCC, with some fit alterations (armhole redo, back width increase, sleeve redraft).  As I'm sure I've mentioned on this blog before, I just love the fit and flare shape.  What I especially love about this dress, though, is that I can sew it in way less than 2 hours, from cutting the fabric to hemming.  Plus, it only takes like 1.5 yards of fabric, so it's kind of a stash-buster, too.

I made this wallpaper floral knit dress first, just because I adore the fabric. It might be a little bold for Paris, but I like bright colors and patterns, so I guess I'll just stick out.  Plus, the poppies will remind me of California when I'm homesick.

Looks like I could use a it of a sway back adjustment, too, but I don't see back there too often :)

Simple and comfy, yet a bit dressy.  My kind of travel outfit.

So the second dress came about because I got my schedule for school in Paris.  The first three official days are going to be spent working Paris Fashion Week!  Backstage, we'll be assisting the models into their haute couture garments.  Holy crap, guys, I will be able to touch and see the insides of haute couture dresses!

But the catch is that we have to wear black.  For three days.  Clearly I don't really *do* black clothing (my dark neutral is navy, obviously).  In fact I've only made two black garments (I believe, though my memory is pretty crap): this black skirt, which I made for a funeral, and a pair of black pants that wasn't properly blogged about and no longer exist in my wardrobe.

Of course, I immediately ran out to buy a few yards of black stretch knit and whipped up another Bronx dress.   With the leftovers, I made a simple black tee to go with some RTW black pants I already owned (to be blogged about shortly).  Two outfits is going to have to be good enough for three days....hopefully no one notices.

A black dress is definitely a useful staple item in a wardrobe, and perhaps more appropriate for Paris, so I'm really pleased with the addition.  Plus, I can make it more colorful with accessories!  I'm in NY now visiting family, but a little over a week until I make my flight to France!

Textured check Bronx dress

I have a thing, apparently.  If I like a pattern, I make it at least twice, in quick succession.  There are many examples, but this is the most recent instance; the Bronx cowl dress (see first version, here).

Clearly, I love this pattern.  More specifically, I love this silhouette and look for me.  A fit and flare dress just works with my every day life.  And again, for those that think dresses are fussy, count the number of garments I have to coordinate and put on my body.  Yup, that number is 1.  Easy-peasy.

Let's talk about the fabric, though; it is the true star of this garment (at least that's my impression based on the number of approving comments I received when I wore it!)  I purchased it last month with an allowance from Britex Fabrics and unfortunately, it's not available anymore.  I normally wouldn't pick a polyester knit, but I just adored the raised square texture!   The fabric is on the thick side--not quite a scuba knit, but with a good heft.  I don't think I'll enjoy the poly knit in the blazing heat of the summer, but it was very comfortable for our early spring temps.

Here's a close up of the tiny raised squares.  It's really fabulous!

Knowing that the fabric was a little thicker than my last version, I expanded the cowl a bit to help it drape better.  To do this, I slashed the pattern horizontally across the bodice at the bustline.  Then, I cut the remaining upper part vertically and expanded the cowl arc.  This expands the cowl while leaving the bust and waist measurements the same.  

I did want to break up the fabric print with  belt, so I added some belt loops at the side seams.  I just ran my serger while pulling the 4 threads to create a "chain" and then attached them to the dress on the inside.  If I don't feel like wearing a belt, I can pull the belt loops inside the dress to make them less visible from the outside.

I suspect I have a couple more of these dresses in my future, though perhaps using the scoop neckline and short sleeve variation for the summer.

I'm also realizing that my last bunch of posts have all been navy garments (and there is one more, I'm afraid!)  Navy is the new black :)

Another Lola (this one is even better!)

Yes, the day after I made the first Lola, I went ahead and made a second.  I had some "spare" fabric lying around and couldn't resist!

The first version was a bit big at the waistline and middle back, so I altered the pattern to take in all of the princess seams above and below the waistline by about 1/4", tapering out to the original line about 3" below the waistline.  I also lowered the armscye by about 1/2".  The new fit feels and looks better, and I can still wiggle into it without any closures!  Oh, I also shortened the length of the dress by about 1", and then increased the width of the ribbing just for fun.

So this fabric!  It's quilted knit, (my color is no longer available, but this is the same fabric) with a bit of batting in between the two layers.  It's amazingly soft and warm, and really, it just feels like I'm wearing a comfy sleeping bag.  Admittedly, it kind of looks like I'm wearing a sleeping bag, but I'm kind of okay with that!

I am constantly cold, and it's just so cozy!  I could seriously live and sleep in this garment.

The quilting is so lovely!

The topstitching for each seam is really apparent on this fabric, and I think it adds a really beautiful detail.

This new version took a total of 1.5 hours to sew, so it's a quick and easy way to make an outfit, but I think a third version of this same style might be a little over-kill.  That being said, I'm not promising a version 3.0 won't happen :)