Birdie shorts

Even in a world where "Birdie Sanders" is a thing, for me, the word "birdie" will always conjure up the feeling of sheer embarrassment I had during my (poor) performance of my one-line solo in the middle school production of "Bye Bye Birdie".  Isn't it funny that such a seemingly benign word can have terrible connotations for someone!  Unfortunately, there really isn't anything else to name these shorts--Audubon shorts?  Lab of O shorts?  (Any other Cornell alums out there? :)

Maybe there is a bit of the same embarrassment in these shorts as the name suggests to my heart.  I was super excited about this fabric (stretch cotton twill, from Mood), and this project got bumped to the top of the list because I was so in love with the idea of shorts with birds on them.  Now that I'm wearing them, I feel a little bit like I'm wearing the inside of a sleeping bag from the 70s.  Remember those woodland duck prints?  (Go ahead and Google "vintage coleman duck sleeping bag").  Hmm....

Aside from the questionable taste level, the fabric was amazing to sew and wear.  Stretch cotton is so lovely.  The pattern is the Maritime Shorts by Grainline.  Definitely a tried&true pattern for me after making the anchors away version last year.

I pattern-matched the birds only at the front pockets, above (where it was easy, in other words).

The only significant change I made this time around was to sew in some functional back welt pockets (using my tutorial, here).  The fabric seemed more refined, and therefore suited a more formal pocket in the back (yes, I'm still referring to fabric with birds on it--the substrate was refined, not the print!). All attempts to pattern-match the welts were utter failures, so I ended up just trying to avoid birds entirely for the visible welt.

Between the awesome sewing pattern and stretchy cotton fabric, these shorts are wonderfully comfortable and fairly flattering.  Now I have to find/make more tops to wear with them!

Really Maritime-y shorts

I bought this lovely chambray fabric (Robert Kaufman, Nautique Chambray) because anchors! I had ideas for a skirt which never materialized, and then felt inextricably drawn to the idea of making Grainline's Maritime Shorts with it because, well, anchors.  It's kitschy, sure, but once my mind latched on to that idea, there was no going back.  I could hardly justify buying a shorts pattern (especially since I have one in hand that I like!), except that I felt like if I didn't make *these* shorts, I may never use the fabric for anything, ever.

I am so happy I did buy the pattern!  These are not the same shorts as the others, clearly, the style is significantly different and more versatile, but also, Jen's drafting is just awesome.  After reading some reviews of the shorts being a little on the small side, I cut a size 2, grading up to a 4 at the waist. I made no other adjustments, and I am really pleased with the fit.

I added 2 full inches to the length, but then hemmed them about 1.5", so I'm not sure how much longer they actually are than the original.

I'm not usually one for patch pockets, but I went with the flow, and I kind of love the change of pace! And check out my pattern matching!  Very pleased with myself on that one and I'll be showing everyone my matching bottom :)

In other areas (uh, waistband), I made no attempts to pattern match and it shows :)  I never wear shirts tucked in, so no biggie.

Here's the zip and a glimpse of the insides.  I didn't construct the waistband as instructed, opting for a quicker and less bulky version we learned in pattern-making class--simply serge the bottom edge and sew down from the outside (either in the ditch or as topstitching, as for this garment).  Sometimes if I'm fancy, I'll add bias tape along the edge.  

For someone who doesn't like shorts, I've made a lot of them this summer...this is the end of that trend for this year.   Having satisfied my crazy obsession for really Maritime-y shorts, I can move on!

Sewing PSA of the day: did you know that NPR's This American Life is available as a 24 hour stream? That's what I listen to as I sew.  Give it a try!

2015 Resewlution, July garment #2

"Shorts on the Line" voting

Since I made them at the right time, I entered my Hawaiian print shorts into the "Shorts on the Line" sewing competition sponsored by Imagine Gnats.  I was so surprised to see that they made it to the top 21 for viewer's choice voting!  Woohoo!

Go check out all of the lovely shorts (men, women and kids!)  and vote for your 3 faves!

Summertime shorts

I'm STILL not on vacation (t-minus 20 hours or so), but at some point it will be summer break for me, since thankfully, it's kind of inevitable.  I'm done with pencil skirts and wool pants for a while; on to summer attire!  So, shorts.  I'm so not a fan of shorts (still not after making these, truthfully), but they are practical and all that.  

Not wanting to spend actual money on a pattern, I located the *free* "Pleasant Pathways Shorts" pattern by Anna Maria Horner.  With only super minor tweaking (crotch curve and lengthening the legs a tad), this pattern worked remarkably well!  I like the clean styling of the faced waistband, side invisible zip and hem facings.  Good blank canvas for some fun fabric.

I added some back welt pockets (referencing my own pattern/ tutorial, which I had to look at to remember :)).  The super crazy print makes them hard to see, but there are two on the back.

Speaking of the fabric, this was a purchase I couldn't resist.  I got this during a big sale at a local store, and it's vintage Hawaiian cotton barkcloth!  Perfect for summer wear and I have enough left over for a skirt of some type, too.  Is it crazy to consider a pencil skirt?

Worn with a different top for a more summery look:

Invisible side zip

This was actually the second pair I made--the first was from an equally loud print, home dec fabric leftovers from making pillows.  My son actually commented that I looked like the office pillows :)  

A few more sleeps until our east coast adventure, with a lot to do before we leave.  Wish more time could be spent sewing my summer wardrobe!  Time to pack what I have!

 2015 Resewlution, June garment #3+4 (still have pants and two blouses yet unblogged!  Eek!)

Scalloped Hem Shorts: pattern review

I've been ogling Pattern Runway's selection of offerings for a while (this one especially, not sure why I haven't pulled the trigger on it yet!), so when I realized I needed a pair of shorts, I finally purchased the Scalloped Hem Shorts.  They are interesting without being odd, and have some sewing details that make them truly feel better than store-bought.

First off, the printed pattern was awesome!  There's a 1x1" grid behind all of the pattern pieces, which made assembly super easy.  Great idea!  The instructions were pretty good, though I did have some trouble with the welt pockets.  It seems as though there are a billion ways to make a welt pocket, and this is yet another, slightly complicated way.  I'm actually certain I didn't assemble them properly (from the inside), but I'm okay with that :)

As for the pattern itself, I had some fit issues.  Mostly, I should have done the crotch length measurement (and didn't), so I didn't shorted the rise (like I should have).  The waist was hitting at my natural waistline, and the crotch was still a little long.  Anyhow, after setting the shorts aside for a while, I decided to chop the waist down by about 1.5" and draft a new waistband.  This helps considerably, but the crotch is still a little long (though not unwearable!).  Next time, I'll be smarter!  I also raised the back leg hem--on me, they seemed oddly long compared to the scalloped hem of the front.

Some of the best parts of this pattern are the pockets!  They are designed purposefully and incorporate some more upper-level sewing skills to ensure a beautiful product.  I am really appreciating indie pattern companies that don't dumb-down their styles for their consumers!

Overall, I'll definitely make another version of these, with some additional fit modifications and perhaps a bottomweight with some stretch.  I don't wear shorts too often, but these are cute and can be dressed up.  Here's a view of how I might actually wear these (think of it like the "serving suggestion" on a food package....)

Fabric is Robert Kaufman's Brussels Washer linen/cotton blend in natural.  I'm owning the slightly rumpled linen look. The pocket bags are Bemberg.

Resewlution 2014: Garment #3.

Plain jane shorts

I'm not a huge fan of shorts, but I recognize that living in California requires I wear such items (and probably with a sweater and scarf in November :).  I've been doing the "sporty skirt with built in shorts" for a while, but a girl needs some variety.  After cutting out the Plain Jane Dress, I realized I had a sizable amount of the stretch denim fabric left (about 3/4 yard, out of 2 yards total.  Yes, I'm indeed short enough to make a dress out of 1 1/4 yards of fabric.).  Quick as a bunny, I downloaded the Iris pattern from Colette, to you know, just see if I could make shorts from 3/4 yard.  And I could!  

I'm not nearly curvy enough to properly fit a pattern from Colette, so using the garment measurements, I decided to cut size 2 for the waist and grade down to 0 for the hips.  Before attaching the waistband, I tried the shorts on and they fit well.  However, the waistband was so incredibly curved, I knew it would  dig into my midsection in a very unflattering way.  It wasn't just a matter of sizing up, so I slashed and spread the waistband and recut my fabric.  I also cut "generously" along the upper side edge.

The resulting waistband fit just right.  No digging in, but still lays properly and doesn't move around when I walk or sit down.

The pattern.  Fitting issues aside, the pattern was fine.  I'd probably make them again, but a couple of things irked me.  For instance, sewing button holes after the pockets are complete was a pain in the buttocks, though I'm not sure there's a work-around for that.  And the front pockets are real, but not super functional. Next time I might make them larger and leave off the buttons. Since I need actual pockets somewhere, I added two functional welt pockets in the back.  

I used this tutorial, which is hands-down the best single-welt pocket tutorial around.  They turned out beautifully, and don't even add much bulk in the back-section.  

Sorry about the wrinkles!  I was wearing the shorts while I was sewing my new pink top.  I lined the waistband in this oh-so-adorable mermaid fabric from my scrap pile.  Love love love, but wish the ladies were right-side up.  *Sigh*

By the way, check out my bracelet!  How cute and summery is that?  My brother-in-law and his wife created Charity Gift Market, which is a marketplace for goods created by charities, and it was gifted to me from there.   So many fun products, and all to support great causes around the world.  

I like these as much as I can like a pair of shorts and will certainly wear them this summer (and maybe even this winter :).  If you haven't already, stop by Shorts on the Line to see the cute shorts folks are sewing up!

Kid's Clothes Week: Days 6, 7 + 8

I got started on one final project for Spring Kid's Clothes Week on Friday, a pair of overalls for my little man.  After working on them for what feels like an eternity, I finally finished them today (just a day overdue :).  Between constantly switching between regular and topstitching thread, having to sew each seam three times, and all the other details that went into these short-alls, they are seriously one of the most involved articles of clothing I've ever made.   But look how cute!  And they fit!

The pattern is Kwik Sew K3948, without all the crazy embellishments, and the fabric is charcoal grey heavyweight twill from Joann's.   I debated the gold topstitching, but glad I went with it, even though I had to rip out many seams that weren't just right (no double-needle was used here!).

I followed the pattern fairly closely, though I used flat-felled seams on the inside instead of just overcasting. 

The little man put them on and took photos (with a lollipop bribe, clearly), but I think he may actually wear them, even without the candy treat.

Inexplicably, moments after finishing the Epic Overall Adventure, I just had to make another Perfect Polo to match.  After making the green version, I was able to whip the new elephant version in just over 2 hours and without consulting the instructions.  Sweet!

I know this color is completely impractical, but I just love it!  And the pearl snaps?  So adorable!

I changed up the pocket shape and size, expanded the collar by about 1", and did a bit of a different construction on the collar stand (I'll go through great lengths to avoid hand sewing).  I'm seriously planning a version for my husband. 

The whole outfit just makes me happy! 

With my class canceled and daycare paid for through the end of the month, Kid's Clothes Week came at a great time.  I was able to put some serious hours in, and made a heap of clothing for my boys!  All in all, I made:

• two pairs of pajamas
• pairs of pants, shorts and shortalls
• one t-shirt and two Perfect Polos (green cars and cream elephants)!

On deck are two very different projects in collaboration with Britex...very exciting! 

Kid's Clothes Week: Day 1

I'm going to preface this post by divulging that I have been home without children for the entire day.  Compound that with not having to deal with fit issues (yay for kid's clothing!) and I was a very productive seamstress today...as should be expected under the aforementioned circumstances, right?

On to the daily report!  First up, I wanted to make a pair of pants for my super skinny big boy.  I had purchased the Dapper Dillinger pattern (Figgy's patterns) a while back, not realizing that the pant is designed to be super baggy (on a regularly-sized child).  So I scaled the back piece to about the 3T waist size and kept the length for his actual size (about a 6).  Hadn't hemmed them for this photo, but they are all done now!

I also decreased the waistband width and added some back patch pockets. Pants just don't look right without back pockets!  I had to remove and reattach these after I began sewing the waistband and realized that the pockets would hit into where the waistband would be sewn!  Helps to read the instructions all the way through, apparently!

Embarrassingly, I sent my younger son to daycare in PJ shorts because it's about 80 degrees today and we had no clean pairs.  To redeem myself, I made him a pair of shorts (from the same material as his brother's pants, of course :)  I used a pair of pants to estimate the shape and sketched a basic pattern such that each leg of the pant is a single piece of fabric. 

I had to add side pockets because, even at 2.5 years old, he actually uses his pockets and it's the cutest thing.

Some double-stitching (with a single needle) for detail.  Love this contrasting fabric (also on the inside of the pockets of the pants, above):

Finally, to round out the afternoon, I busted out a t-shirt.  Using a RTW top for the pattern, I serged it up in no time.  I still don't have an elegant way to deal with some of the issues of sewing with a serger, but pulling out the hand needle to tuck and hide threads works well for now!  I finally got to try out clear elastic to reinforce the shoulder seams and it worked great!

After much cajoling, here are the two boys in their mom-made duds:

After telling the eldest to lift his shirt so I could get a photo of the waistband, little brother wanted to copy.  Too cute!

Incredibly, even without the kids around to check sizing, everything fit super well!  Little man's shorts could be bigger in the bum to accommodate his cloth diaper, but *finger's crossed* he'll be out of those sooner than later.

My older son loves animals and I could tell he wanted a lizard shirt like his brother.  After some discussion, it came out that he thinks the print is a little "babyish", but he's thrilled to get lizard PJs instead.  Looks like I have my next project for the week!