Work uniform, Fall 2017

So a couple of years ago, I loved the pencil skirt with fine-gauge sweater (with scarf and boots) for work.  This year, I can feel a new uniform developing: the pencil skirt with high-waisted "sweater" (with cute flats and statement necklace or brooch). 

I had to make some fit adjustments to the original pattern, but this skirt is the same pattern I drafted in my patternmaking class several years ago.  It's such a great design and fabulous wardrobe staple.  See, high-waisted = covers my belly button!

A few weeks ago, I went to the "Artistry in Fashion" event at Cañada College (where I'm currently taking a pants drafting and fitting course).  Britex had a small booth there with some discounted remnants, so I scooped up this luxurious Italian wool fabric.  There was only 2/3 of a yard, but with my lack of height, I knew I could eek out a skirt.  And I did, with some inches to spare!

The inside has a self-facing and is fully lined (Bemberg rayon, in the most lovely pale blush color) and there's a back vent (which is completely necessary for walking!).

I used the tried and true Astoria top from Seamworks (with personal fit modifications) for the top pattern.  It's so versatile and comfortable.  Here's the top with a swishy skirt and it works just as well.

For the top, I had a gorgeous plum stretch wool-rayon double knit from Mood.  It's pretty thick with not much stretch, but it's perfect for this type of "sweater" top.  The high-waisted, wide band really works with this skirt, I think.  And there's enough coverage for me to raise my arms (within reason) and not show too much skin.

Since the fabric has very little stretch, the neckline stands up a bit, but I think it gives a bit of a vintage vibe to the garment.

I've already got fabric for three more skirts lined up and a couple more tops.  I'm clearly very excited about my new uniform!  

Draped denim day dress

Here it is; the culmination of my draping class at WVC!  When I say draping class, the assumption is that there are going to be, like, a drape of fabric somewhere on the garment, but really draping is just another way to draft a pattern.  Many of the styles we did as exercises were not "drapey" at all, since the method lends itself well for creating perfectly fitted garments.

It looks very simple, but there are some tricky (to drape) and interesting elements to the dress.  Let's walk through it, shall we?  First up is the combination sleeve and bodice. It's essentially a kimono sleeve.  I love the above-bust seam line for us smaller-chested ladies.

The front bodice has a seamed center front and I used decorative red topstitching for fun.

There are princess seams in the front that transition into scoop pockets.

The back also has princess seams that end at the hip.

I topstitched the hem in red and used a red invisible zipper to tie it all together.  The back bodice/ sleeve combination has the same general shape as the front

My original dress didn't fit me because my dress form at school wasn't petite enough (despite grabbing the only petite form in the class), so to adjust, I took up about an inch on the upper sleeve seam, if that makes any sense.

While it's not the most earth-shattering design, it's very me and I kind of love the utilitarian vibe it has.  Also, within 2 minutes of wearing it to the farmer's market, a woman walked over to me to tell me how much she loved my dress and asked where I got it, so that was affirming.  It was pretty amazing to be able to say I designed and sewed it myself!

As a bonus for making it this far in my post, I've also photo'ed my mid-term dress!  It doesn't work on my body, so here it is on the form.  The assignment was to design using bias or other non-straight grain grainline.

The dress opens at the front at the waistline with a snap--it's kind of clunky.  The dress was a complete pain to drape and it doesn't look like I envisioned it, so I'm not thrilled with it.  Let's look at my final project again, since it was a pleasure to work on :)

Thrilled that this is one of the items I'm taking to Paris!

Textured check Bronx dress

I have a thing, apparently.  If I like a pattern, I make it at least twice, in quick succession.  There are many examples, but this is the most recent instance; the Bronx cowl dress (see first version, here).

Clearly, I love this pattern.  More specifically, I love this silhouette and look for me.  A fit and flare dress just works with my every day life.  And again, for those that think dresses are fussy, count the number of garments I have to coordinate and put on my body.  Yup, that number is 1.  Easy-peasy.

Let's talk about the fabric, though; it is the true star of this garment (at least that's my impression based on the number of approving comments I received when I wore it!)  I purchased it last month with an allowance from Britex Fabrics and unfortunately, it's not available anymore.  I normally wouldn't pick a polyester knit, but I just adored the raised square texture!   The fabric is on the thick side--not quite a scuba knit, but with a good heft.  I don't think I'll enjoy the poly knit in the blazing heat of the summer, but it was very comfortable for our early spring temps.

Here's a close up of the tiny raised squares.  It's really fabulous!

Knowing that the fabric was a little thicker than my last version, I expanded the cowl a bit to help it drape better.  To do this, I slashed the pattern horizontally across the bodice at the bustline.  Then, I cut the remaining upper part vertically and expanded the cowl arc.  This expands the cowl while leaving the bust and waist measurements the same.  

I did want to break up the fabric print with  belt, so I added some belt loops at the side seams.  I just ran my serger while pulling the 4 threads to create a "chain" and then attached them to the dress on the inside.  If I don't feel like wearing a belt, I can pull the belt loops inside the dress to make them less visible from the outside.

I suspect I have a couple more of these dresses in my future, though perhaps using the scoop neckline and short sleeve variation for the summer.

I'm also realizing that my last bunch of posts have all been navy garments (and there is one more, I'm afraid!)  Navy is the new black :)

Another Lola (this one is even better!)

Yes, the day after I made the first Lola, I went ahead and made a second.  I had some "spare" fabric lying around and couldn't resist!

The first version was a bit big at the waistline and middle back, so I altered the pattern to take in all of the princess seams above and below the waistline by about 1/4", tapering out to the original line about 3" below the waistline.  I also lowered the armscye by about 1/2".  The new fit feels and looks better, and I can still wiggle into it without any closures!  Oh, I also shortened the length of the dress by about 1", and then increased the width of the ribbing just for fun.

So this fabric!  It's quilted knit, (my color is no longer available, but this is the same fabric) with a bit of batting in between the two layers.  It's amazingly soft and warm, and really, it just feels like I'm wearing a comfy sleeping bag.  Admittedly, it kind of looks like I'm wearing a sleeping bag, but I'm kind of okay with that!

I am constantly cold, and it's just so cozy!  I could seriously live and sleep in this garment.

The quilting is so lovely!

The topstitching for each seam is really apparent on this fabric, and I think it adds a really beautiful detail.

This new version took a total of 1.5 hours to sew, so it's a quick and easy way to make an outfit, but I think a third version of this same style might be a little over-kill.  That being said, I'm not promising a version 3.0 won't happen :)

A dress to match a necklace

Yep, it's been a while!  After returning from Alaska (and purchasing even more land!), school started for the boys, then it started for me (for the classes I take) and a month later school started again (for the classes I teach).  Somewhere in there, we did a major remodel in our house and then painted and replaced carpeting in half the house.  Sewing has been low on the priority list!  Note: this has not kept me from amassing more and more fabric in the wild hopes that I will eventually have time and access to my sewing room again :)  

Even though I haven't been sewing a lot, but I do have a few completed projects to document.  First up is this dress sewn back in July, and solely made to coordinate with the necklace made by my brother's girlfriend (thank you, Olivia!):

The fabric is a ponte knit (from Harts Fabric), with a nice weight.  I liked the "scratch plaid" pattern and it played well with the variegation of the stones in the necklace.  

The pattern is a simple, 60s style shift from Burda Style. (B7031)  I love, love, love the French darts, but it makes me laugh that the description says the dress has "unsophisticated style lines".  Huh? Perhaps lost in translation?

I omitted the back zipper since the neckline is wide enough and the fabric has enough stretch.

The dress is amazingly comfortable, yet stylish enough to wear to work.  While I wore it with pointy toed black flats this fall, I'll definitely pair it with boots and tights when the weather gets colder.  

More Fall looks to follow!

Companion Carpet Bag in silk brocade

I can hardly believe I made this bag--I'm just so in love with it!  As my most recent Britex project, I've been thinking about this bag for a while--I picked out the fabric and pattern months ago, and sat down just this week to sew it.  It turned out exactly like I imagined!

First off, let's talk about this fabric.  Guys, that is silk brocade.  It's a wonderful rough-ish-textured, vintage-inspired medium-heavy weight fabric that just screams handbag to me.  For the bag lining, I went a little unconventional and used a comic-inspired print of extolling the virtues of home sewing. I couldn't help myself.

The pattern is by Samantha from the blog At Home with Mrs. H.  I tested the 12" bag pattern for her months ago, and the pattern is part of the Bag of the Month Club (so not available outside the club quite yet). This is the 8" frame pattern, which features outside and inside slip pockets and an inside zip pocket.

The tubular snap-close frame is so much fun, and creates this gaping bass mouth look, that makes you just want to toss the kitchen sink into your handbag.  It's not quite big enough to stash a floor lamp, like Mary Poppins, but close enough.  You can only imagine how much I can hold in the 12" bag (which I made and will eventually post about :)

Unfortunately, the tubular frame must be ordered from Hong Kong, but it is so worth the wait!  I also purchased the faux-leather handles from the same Etsy store.  

The best part is how well this bag keeps its shape!  I used Soft n' Stable for all the outer pieces and a medium weight interfacing on all the lining pieces.  I wish I had used some kind of spray adhesive to keep the outer fabric and Soft n' Stable together, but it still looks pretty nice regardless.

To keep the bag from sagging at the bottom (look--no sag!  And I have all my stuff in there!), I cut a small flexible cutting board to fit (these exact ones), and drilled holes to attach the brass bag feet (not shown in any photos, somehow!).  It worked like a charm.  

I wrote a tutorial for the custom piping along the front pocket and I'll get that up here shortly.  If you're in a hurry, it's over at Britex right now (and while you're there, you can enter to win a subscription to the Bag of the Month Club!).  

Many thanks to Samantha for providing both sizes of the Companion Carpet Bag pattern and Britex for yet again letting me work with their amazing fabrics!