Flint wide-legged trousers

I've finished teaching until the Fall (!!), but a few months ago, I was in need of some work-appropriate items.  Enter the Flint trouser by Megan Nielsen.  This style is a bit of a departure for my normal slim-legged pant wardrobe, but it's kind of refreshing (and certainly comfortable).  

The pattern itself is simple, as far as pants go.  There isn't a zipper, so to open the waistband, there's a clever opening system (buttons at the side, which transition into the pocket). 

Since I was kind of loving the sailor-inspired buttons on the side, I matched them on the other side, complete with non-functional "buttonholes".

The legs are definitely wide, and the width starts at the butt.  I need to somehow reduce the crotch length a bit for the next go around, since there's a little *extra* fabric in there.

And for the record, the back seam is sewn correctly--I must just have shifted them around a bit, so it looks funny in the photos!

 The fabric (stretch double weave cotton in Charcoal) is from Hart's and is really quite perfect for this particular style.  It has some weight, but is still a bit drapey.  I definitely enjoyed sewing with it and it's very lovely to wear.

Overall, I like the pattern a LOT.  There are some minor fit issues, but the style is fun and different and a good addition to my wardrobe.  I'm looking forward to trying the shorts version, perhaps with the waist bow, for the summer!

Tomato wool tweed trousers

Initially, I had envisioned this tomato and pink wool tweed fabric from Britex for the perfect chic work dress, but since said chic dress pattern is not in existence (yet...), the fabric sat for a while.  I've tossed a couple of ill-fitting wool pants recently, so this fabric seemed like a fun option with which to replace them.

The pattern is Amazing Fit trousers (Simplicity 8056).  I like that this pattern series acknowledges that people carry weight differently, and the pattern has three "fits": slim, average, and curvy. Admittedly, I had originally tried this pattern in the "slim" category, since my hip measurement is proportionally smaller than my waist measurement when compared to the "standard".  However, the back waistband would pull downward, so it was clear my bum is (much) bigger than I had thought (hoped!).  I went with the average category this time around and the fit was better, with still some tweaking to do.  I also did a bit of a petite adjustment, which amounted to, essentially, shortening the rise in the front and back.  In previous iterations, fabric in the crotch area was kind of pooling below the zipper.   I am *almost* at the goal of perpendicular side seams.

This pattern does not come with back pockets, so I added some single welt pockets.

With extreme close up, to show the fabric a little better.

I also added a full lining (Bemberg rayon, of course) to these trousers, since it is pretty much unacceptable for me to wear wool without a lining.  I'm not allergic or anything, it just annoys the poop out of me.  

Here's the waistband, with zip fly and double bar closures (+ snap).  I'm locked in there!  

At this point, I may still take the length up a teeny bit (like less than 1/2").  Depending on my shoes, they sometimes hit the ground in the back, but it's definitely a fine line.  

Oh hey, I made the top, too.  This is a self-drafted pattern to replicate a Banana Republic one I wore into the ground.  It's still in the early stages of drafting, but it goes well with these pants (unlike most everything else in my wardrobe!).

And here they are on my mannequin with leg stumps.  I've never used my dressmakers form for pants, and they actually fit!  Of course, it's a fiasco to get them on and off, but once in a while isn't a big deal.

I'm a few critical steps closer to my goal of a perfectly fitting trouser pattern, so I can make a shiny new pair of wool trousers for the start of school each year :) I need to clear up the extra fabric under my bum there, but I have a plan of attack for the next version.  

I'm also working on trying to get a well-fitted pair of cropped slim leg pants, and that is coming along significantly less well...evidence coming up.

Self-drafted trousers: two brown versions

Wearable muslin (left) and final draft (right).  Slight changes make a big difference!

As part of my patternmaking class, we were tasked with drafting a pants sloper from measurements (I used my own) and then creating a "style" from that basic pattern.  The process of drafting pants isn't too difficult, if you just accept that multiple drafts are required!

This first pair is my "wearable muslin" after doing some true rough drafts.  They have a yoke-like waistband, zipper fly and front pockets.  The assignment required front and back creases, which I normally wouldn't add, but actually quite like.  My back creases are off, but I haven't yet fixed them (if I can even un-crease them).

The fabric is a medium weight wool tweed in a herringbone pattern.  In the photos it appears gray, but they are actually brown.

I underlined the entire pair with dark brown rayon Bemberg, so they are super comfortable.

The back has only small darts and no pockets.

And here you can see my issue with this "wearable muslin"--the back waistband dips at center back. So, I added length to the back rise and made a new pair of pants, the ones I actually turned in for a grade.

These are made with light-medium stretch wool from Britex. The fabric is nice and smooth, so I didn't bother lining them.

Both pairs have been worn to work already, and I love them!  Very versatile, comfortable, and classic in shape.

And here's the inside waistband, finished in rayon seam binding.

Phew, that was a lot of brown trouser!  For my next class project (due tomorrow), I drafted and sewed a cross-front leotard our of lycra knit.  I'm not sure I'll be posting images of that because despite fitting well, it's not the most lovely garment on my body (and looks a little wacky on a hanger)!  Then, for the next two weeks, I'll be working on my final project: a full suit, drafted to my own measurements.  I've made all the components at least once already for my classwork, but I'll be tweaking the patterns a bit for my own aesthetic.  Very exciting!

Resewlution 2014, November garments #3 and 4.