Flint wide-legged trousers

I've finished teaching until the Fall (!!), but a few months ago, I was in need of some work-appropriate items.  Enter the Flint trouser by Megan Nielsen.  This style is a bit of a departure for my normal slim-legged pant wardrobe, but it's kind of refreshing (and certainly comfortable).  

The pattern itself is simple, as far as pants go.  There isn't a zipper, so to open the waistband, there's a clever opening system (buttons at the side, which transition into the pocket). 

Since I was kind of loving the sailor-inspired buttons on the side, I matched them on the other side, complete with non-functional "buttonholes".

The legs are definitely wide, and the width starts at the butt.  I need to somehow reduce the crotch length a bit for the next go around, since there's a little *extra* fabric in there.

And for the record, the back seam is sewn correctly--I must just have shifted them around a bit, so it looks funny in the photos!

 The fabric (stretch double weave cotton in Charcoal) is from Hart's and is really quite perfect for this particular style.  It has some weight, but is still a bit drapey.  I definitely enjoyed sewing with it and it's very lovely to wear.

Overall, I like the pattern a LOT.  There are some minor fit issues, but the style is fun and different and a good addition to my wardrobe.  I'm looking forward to trying the shorts version, perhaps with the waist bow, for the summer!

Tomato wool tweed trousers

Initially, I had envisioned this tomato and pink wool tweed fabric from Britex for the perfect chic work dress, but since said chic dress pattern is not in existence (yet...), the fabric sat for a while.  I've tossed a couple of ill-fitting wool pants recently, so this fabric seemed like a fun option with which to replace them.

The pattern is Amazing Fit trousers (Simplicity 8056).  I like that this pattern series acknowledges that people carry weight differently, and the pattern has three "fits": slim, average, and curvy. Admittedly, I had originally tried this pattern in the "slim" category, since my hip measurement is proportionally smaller than my waist measurement when compared to the "standard".  However, the back waistband would pull downward, so it was clear my bum is (much) bigger than I had thought (hoped!).  I went with the average category this time around and the fit was better, with still some tweaking to do.  I also did a bit of a petite adjustment, which amounted to, essentially, shortening the rise in the front and back.  In previous iterations, fabric in the crotch area was kind of pooling below the zipper.   I am *almost* at the goal of perpendicular side seams.

This pattern does not come with back pockets, so I added some single welt pockets.

With extreme close up, to show the fabric a little better.

I also added a full lining (Bemberg rayon, of course) to these trousers, since it is pretty much unacceptable for me to wear wool without a lining.  I'm not allergic or anything, it just annoys the poop out of me.  

Here's the waistband, with zip fly and double bar closures (+ snap).  I'm locked in there!  

At this point, I may still take the length up a teeny bit (like less than 1/2").  Depending on my shoes, they sometimes hit the ground in the back, but it's definitely a fine line.  

Oh hey, I made the top, too.  This is a self-drafted pattern to replicate a Banana Republic one I wore into the ground.  It's still in the early stages of drafting, but it goes well with these pants (unlike most everything else in my wardrobe!).

And here they are on my mannequin with leg stumps.  I've never used my dressmakers form for pants, and they actually fit!  Of course, it's a fiasco to get them on and off, but once in a while isn't a big deal.

I'm a few critical steps closer to my goal of a perfectly fitting trouser pattern, so I can make a shiny new pair of wool trousers for the start of school each year :) I need to clear up the extra fabric under my bum there, but I have a plan of attack for the next version.  

I'm also working on trying to get a well-fitted pair of cropped slim leg pants, and that is coming along significantly less well...evidence coming up.

What I made to wear to the French Laundry

Spoiler alert: I didn't wear this outfit (insert sad face).

When I found out we had gotten highly-sought after reservations to the French Laundry, I immediately knew I wanted to wear something me-made.  After all, I was so proud of having worn a complete handmade outfit to Quince for my birthday.  But other than men having to wear a jacket, there isn't a lot of guidelines for what to wear to a 3-Michelin star restaurant.  So, I decided to try my hand at sequins...sequins are always fancy, right?

The fabric I selected online wasn't what I expected in person, and holding the length up to my body, I immediately saw the 70s (and not in a good way).  So my uncertainty of the taste-level of the fabric planted the seed of doubt into my mind.  My initial style plan was a simple A-line type dress.  Well, the dress length only accentuated the 70s-ishness of the outfit, so I scraped that idea and went with a simple top and navy slim pant outfit idea.

Sewing sequined fabric sucks.  We all know you have to remove the paillettes from the seam allowance, but you really do actually have to remove all the paillettes from the seam allowances. That took significantly longer than sewing the top.  The linear arrangement of square paillettes made matters so much worse (diagonal seams and darts were impossible).  I couldn't take it anymore, so I finished the neck, sleeve, and hem allowance with shimmery gold HugSnug.  I felt like this was a good solution, but the seed in my mind was growing and growing ("my garment is slap together!", kept running through my mind).  But, I figured with the right accessories, it might still be okay.  On to the pants!

I used the Amazing Fit slim pant pattern (Simplicity 1696) and this fabric from Mood for a pair of chic slim pants.  They turned out okay--not perfect.  But hey, I have these fab velvet heels to fancy it all up!

Our dinner reservations were at 5:30, and we were staying a 5 minute walk to the restaurant.  I dressed in my outfit but at 5:17, I got too nervous to wear a "handmade pants outfit" to the French Laundry and I quickly threw on my Plan B.  Plan B is NOT homemade, but designed by one of my favorites, Byron Lars (with the same awesome shoes):  

Between my uncertainty of the outfit, the grandeur of the restaurant's reputation, and the fact that I feel much more confident, stylish, and myself in a dress, I chickened out!  However, after seeing what other folks were wearing, I felt sad and disappointed that I didn't wear my own outfit.  It would have been perfectly appropriate, and even pretty cute, I think.  And much more comfortable.   By the end of the 8 course meal (and 7 desserts), I felt (and probably looked) like a stuffed sausage.  

So...unfortunately, the memory of our lovely experience at the amazing French Laundry now has a tinge of disappointment in myself for being a wuss.  Ugh.  We'll just have to go back again so I can supplant that memory with a new one (in which I proudly wear something homemade and tell the server that I don't like lamb!).  

Self-drafted trousers: two brown versions

Wearable muslin (left) and final draft (right).  Slight changes make a big difference!

As part of my patternmaking class, we were tasked with drafting a pants sloper from measurements (I used my own) and then creating a "style" from that basic pattern.  The process of drafting pants isn't too difficult, if you just accept that multiple drafts are required!

This first pair is my "wearable muslin" after doing some true rough drafts.  They have a yoke-like waistband, zipper fly and front pockets.  The assignment required front and back creases, which I normally wouldn't add, but actually quite like.  My back creases are off, but I haven't yet fixed them (if I can even un-crease them).

The fabric is a medium weight wool tweed in a herringbone pattern.  In the photos it appears gray, but they are actually brown.

I underlined the entire pair with dark brown rayon Bemberg, so they are super comfortable.

The back has only small darts and no pockets.

And here you can see my issue with this "wearable muslin"--the back waistband dips at center back. So, I added length to the back rise and made a new pair of pants, the ones I actually turned in for a grade.

These are made with light-medium stretch wool from Britex. The fabric is nice and smooth, so I didn't bother lining them.

Both pairs have been worn to work already, and I love them!  Very versatile, comfortable, and classic in shape.

And here's the inside waistband, finished in rayon seam binding.

Phew, that was a lot of brown trouser!  For my next class project (due tomorrow), I drafted and sewed a cross-front leotard our of lycra knit.  I'm not sure I'll be posting images of that because despite fitting well, it's not the most lovely garment on my body (and looks a little wacky on a hanger)!  Then, for the next two weeks, I'll be working on my final project: a full suit, drafted to my own measurements.  I've made all the components at least once already for my classwork, but I'll be tweaking the patterns a bit for my own aesthetic.  Very exciting!

Resewlution 2014, November garments #3 and 4.  

Put a welt pocket on it! (Tutorial and free pattern)

I just don't like the look of pants without pockets on the back.  Even one pocket is good enough for me, just something to break up the wide expanse of fabric covering my bottom.  But even when pants or shorts patterns don't have this feature provided, you can still add one!  There are tons of different pocket styles to chose from, but I like welt pockets since they look professional and match the styling of a wide range of pants/ shorts designs.

Peek at my newest pair of pants

In this tutorial, I will be walking through sewing a welt pocket using a basic pants pattern--one with a single dart at the back waistband, but you can use almost any pants, shorts or skirt pattern.  The welt pockets I'm sewing here are part of my "Manhattan Trousers" by Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick (full post to follow). The welt is sewn in before any side or inseams are sewn, so you'll have to plan ahead a bit.  I like my welt pockets to be about 2" below the waistband seam (measured from sewn waistband to top edge of welt), positioned over the very tip of the back dart.  I actually use the vanishing point of the dart to position the lower stitching line of the welt pocket opening, so it's important that the dart be the right length (3", measured from the raw edge).  The Manhattan trouser dart is slightly longer, so I reduced the length and width slightly and distributed the rest of the dart intake to the center back and side seam.

Original back dart and seams

Redrawn dart and side seams

If you want your welt pocket lower (more than 2" below sewn waistband), the dart length and Pocket Back pattern piece should be increased by the same amount.  For example, if you want your welt edge to be 3" below the waistband, make your dart 4" long and your Pocket Back piece should have 1" added to the upper edge.

Okay, now for the welt.  The fairly standard welt pocket size is about 1/2" x 4.5".  If you are very small or very large, you may want to decrease or increase the width to keep the proportions, but for the majority of folks, this size should be fine.

Download the welt pocket pattern.  (For printing, be sure to unselect "Fit to Page".)

Cut out, interface, and finish the edges of the Welt Facing piece.  Then, using pins and the pattern as a template, mark ends of the dotted lines (the location of the four corners of the welt pocket "window"). Then, draw two parallel lines connecting the dots, making sure the lengths are exactly 4.5".  (Note: the solid line rectangle below indicates the part of the facing that is going to show through the welt "window", the welt itself, for purposes of pattern matching.)

Mark ends of dotted lines with pins

Use pins to mark the wrong side of the welt facing

Two parallel lines (4.5") connecting top and bottom corners

Fold the facing in half to create a reference line and place a pin at the intersection point of the midline and the lower of the two parallel lines.    On the right side of your pants back, position the welt facing at the very tip of the dart (using your pin), keeping the midline point in line with the dart.  You may want to interface the pants (on the wrong side) where your welt will go (I did not to reduce bulk).

Right sides facing, align the middle of the welt facing with the back dart

Pin used for reference at the corner of midline and bottom drawn line.

Pin helps align that point to the bottom of the back dart

Pin in place

Carefully stitch along your marked parallel lines, starting and stopping (with backstitching) at the exact same points for both lines.  

Stitched lines, stopping at the same point to create equal length seams.

Fold the welt facing in half and carefully make a small cut between the two lines of stitching.  Open up the piece and extend the cut line in both directions until about 3/4" from the ends of the stitching lines and cut a V toward the "corners".  Slit as close to the stitching as possible without cutting the thread.

Cut a small starting point, then open the slit further.

V notch at the ends of the welt opening.

One at a time, fold the upper and lower flaps of the welt facing over the opening and press to flatten the seam.  (Only the top flap is folded here).

Pressing the seams open helps create the window in the next step.

Push both flaps through the window toward the wrong side of the pants.

Pushed through to the back side

Manipulate the facing so that it lays flat and even around in the opening and press in place.  

Don't be confused, the pants are upside down here!

Now the welt facing creates the welt!  Fold the bottom flap upward, enough to match the top edge of the window.  Flip to the front to make sure the welt is even (1/2" in width), then press in place.

The pants are still upside down, the bottom flap is being folded.

Close-up to show the fold from the side

With pants right side up, fold the side of pants toward the center to reveal the tiny little triangle created by the V notch.  This must be stitched down to secure the sides of the welt and structure the pocket. Stitch through the triangle and folds of the welt facing, as close to the fold line as possible without stitching over it.  Repeat on the other side.

Fold side of pants over to reveal the wrong side of the welt facing

Stitching on the welt facing side

Stitch in the ditch along the lower edge of the welt to keep the welt in place.

Cut the Pocket Front piece out of lining fabric.  Position the top side of the pocket front to the bottom of the welt facing, right sides facing.  Sew with 1/2" seam allowance and press the pocket from downward.

Pocket front aligned with the bottom of the welt facing.

Pocket front pressed downward

Cut the Pocket Back from self fabric.  Position the piece over the welt facing/ pocket front, matching bottom and sides.  If the top hangs over the waistline, trim it off to match the waistline.

Pocket back over the welt facing/ pocket front

Pin the pocket back in position and carefully flip the whole thing over so the pants are right side up. Fold down the pant waist to reveal the welt facing and top of the pocket back. Stitch  through the welt facing and pocket back along the welt facing close to the fold line to stabilize the pocket and attach the welt window to the pocket back.

Pants are folded back to reveal the wrong side of the welt facing and pocket back

Stitch close to the original upper "window" stitching line

Seam or serge around three sides of the pocket, making sure to catch all the pocket layers and not the pants piece.

All pocket layers pinned in place

Serge around three edges

Baste along the upper edge and continue on with the rest of your pattern!

Good luck and let me know if you have any questions!