Quilt finished!

Quilting really isn't my thing; I've made a handful of quilts over the years and while I have been really proud of the resulting blankets, it's not something I enjoy very much.  So, clearly, making a new dress or blouse has taken priority over a long-term quilting project!

On the spare bed for a moment

Truthfully, I had intended to make a quilt for my younger son when he moved into a "big boy" bed. But that was about 4 years ago.... However, with an impending long trip away from my kids, there was an impetus to get that project off the queue.  Finally buckled down and got it done!  Phew!

The pattern I used was "New Wave" by Elizabeth Hartman.  Such a simple, modern and beautiful design!  I can imagine it in tonal solids for an adult bed.  But for this one, I chose 19 different prints (over the years I've swapped some out as I've found new and exciting prints) that had a similar color scheme to the quilt I made for my older son.

Since the blocks are trapezoidal, cutting was not quick!  Then there was the perpetual fear of stretching along the near-bias of the slanted edges, so sewing was not the quickest, either.  It was also not trivial to line up all those diagonal lines!  However, the result is totally worth it.  Love!

Since the only thing worse than sewing the quilt piece together is the actual quilting part, I "subcontracted" that part out! Local long arm quilter, Melodee Wade, who also quilted my older son's quilt, did the work.  She does a beautiful job and in hardly any time at all!   She also trims the edges so all I had to do was apply the binding--pretty awesome.

Laid out on the kitchen floor in preparation for quilting

Melodee suggested the "bubbles" design for the quilt, which nicely complemented some of the wheels and other circles in the prints.  

The edges are finished with handmade binding, with mitered corners. 

The back is a solid orange color, with a strip of fabrics from my son's original baby bedding that I made when he was an infant.

Here's the photo of the two mom-made quilts together.  The idea was to have them coordinating but not identical.  My older son's (on the top) is a Denyse Schmidt design from her book, made about 7 years ago (before this blog).  It's shocking how much wear it is showing already, and that makes me sad.  Some of the blocks are ripping and the whole thing is very faded.  Honestly, we don't wash it that often, but clearly this isn't going to be an heirloom!  Below is a close-up of some of the worst blocks, how the quilt looks on his upper bunk, and finally what the quilt looked like originally (on Melodee's long arm machine):

C'est la vie, I guess.  Perhaps I'll be making replacements for these in the next few years!

It's such a nice feeling having this project done...now now back to clothing!

Tutorial: Tortilla warmer

A few months ago, I learned how to make corn tortillas from scratch....just in time to teach a class of 4th graders and then a class of 4 year olds :)  After making (and eating) that many tortillas with the kids, I was completely hooked!  And after purchasing a press, the obvious next thought was that I needed a tortilla warmer.  A warmer keeps freshly cooked tortillas soft and warm, but even if you purchase your tortillas, a warmer makes it easier to heat them up in the microwave.  So, pretty much everyone needs a tortilla warmer and here's how to make your own!

Supplies:

• cotton batting (do not use Insul-bright or similar metallic material, so you can use it in the microwave)
• 1/2 yard of home dec or quilting cotton for the outside, pre-washed
• 1/2 yard of unbleached muslin, pre-washed
• about 1 yard of bias tape (purchased or make your own)
• 1 button (preferably with a shank)

For my warmer, I used a compass to draw a 10" circle on paper to make a pattern, but you can use any round object (plate, bowl) in that general size.  At this point, I only make the smaller corn tortillas, but the warmer can be made in diameters to suits your own tortilla-warming needs.  

First up, cut 4 rounds of cotton batting and two each of the outer fabric and muslin.  Then, make two stacks as follows: muslin, 2 rounds of cotton batting, and outer fabric on top.  

Quilt the four layers of each stack.  Starting in the center and sewing toward the edge prevents the layers from shifting or bunching too much.  Trim around the edges and zig-zag around to keep it all even.

Since I'm so obsessed with bias tape makers, and I need to justify owning several, I convinced myself that using two different widths of bias tape was absolutely necessary for this project.  If you don't need to justify your bias tape maker obsession, feel free to use a single width of bias tape  (1/2" single fold should work)

I labelled my bias makers with the width of fabric strip needed.

I made two strips of narrow bias tape (equal to half the circumference of your rounds + ~2 inches) and one strip of slightly wider bias (again, equal to half the circumference + ~2 inches.  

Apply the narrow bias tape to each quilted round.   I sewed first from the wrong side, flipped it to the right side and neatly topstitched.  This bias tape should cover a bit more than half the circumference of the circle (see below).

Then, put the two rounds together, muslin sides facing and matching up the bias edges.  You may want to zig-zag or baste the two unbiased edges to keep them neatly together.   Then, apply the wider-width bias to unfinished edges, tucking in the raw edges at the ends and being sure to cover the ends of the narrow bias tape.  

Next up is a neat button closure.  Using leftover bias tape, fold lengthwise and stitch to close.  Fold in half, and position the loop on the right side of one of the rounds.  Check length to ensure it will work with your button.  Stitch to the inside of your bias tape by 1/8 of an inch or so.  Trim ends close to stitching.

Fold the loop over the stitch line and stitch again, along the bias tape top-stitching to reinforce the loop and hide the raw edges.  (Alternatively, you can position the loop while sewing the bias tape.)

Sew the button on the right side of the other quilted round.

Done!  Now get out there and make some tortillas!

The fabric is Echino cotton/linen shirting, purchased at Hart's Fabrics.  Doesn't it look all fiesta-like?

P.S. This particular tortilla warmer was sewn for our wonderful pre-school teacher!  

Ironing board recover in Olfa Mat!

A a few months ago, with concern for my kids' safety when they're milling around under my ironing board, I bought a sturdier version.  My previous board's cover didn't fit the new one, and after only a short while, the new ironing board was showing some serious signs of wear.  But when I found this "Olfa Mat" fabric at Hart's last week, I finally had the impetus for change.  Seriously. Brilliant.  

Not perfect, but close enough!

The process was simple: remove old, stained cover, iron in half and use as a template.  To create the casing around the edge, I made some 1/2" bias tape with my handy bias tape maker (and here you can see how bad the original cover really is!)

Love a fresh covering board and LOVE the practicality of this print!

Miter-cornered napkins, two ways

If you're coming from Britex Fabrics, welcome! 

At our house, we've been exclusively using cloth napkins for a while now.  I typically use quilting cotton for our "regular" napkins, so when I received the cotton and linen yardage from Britex, I almost felt guilty for using such incredible, beautiful fabric essentially for wiping dirty hands and mouths.  But as I worked with the linen in particular, I came to the realization that I wasn't making a throw-away, disposable item; well-made table linens, from high-quality fabrics are the type of item one might inherit.  That thought made me especially happy since I chose the linen fabric to coordinate with a set of German breakfast dishes handed down to me from my grandmother.  How fitting!

Napkins come in all shapes and sizes, for all occasions.  For more "casual" napkins, I sew a narrow hem and little miter corners.  For formal, special occasion linen napkins, I use a wider hem and the traditional sewn miter corner.  This tutorial shows you how to make both!

For either type of napkin, you will need some supplies:

• rotary cutter, straight edge, and self-healing mat
• scissors
• clear quilter's ruler
• fabric marking pencil
• seam gauge
• tiny crochet hook or point turner
• spray starch

Casual Cotton Napkins

Formal Linen Napkins

Casual miter-corner napkins
First up, the casual napkin.  I usually make these out of medium-weight cottons, that can be happily machine washed and dried.  For these napkins, I used cherry red oxford shirting from Britex.  The size of the napkins you want obviously determines how much fabric to buy, but to maximize the fabric usage, I typically make my dinner napkins around 17" square.  This way, I can get 4 napkins out of a single yard of fabric.  Fat quarter bundles work great for this size.  For today's tutorial, I made cocktail-size napkins at 9" square, and could cut 8 napkins out of 3/4 yard (58" width). 

For the casual napkin, if you want it X inch square, you must cut your fabric X+1 inch square to allow for 1/2" hem allowances on all sides.  Iron the fabric carefully and cut the fabric precisely square.

Using steam, press 1/4" around all four sizes of your fabric square.  I often eyeball this, but use the seam gauge to be more accurate.  If your fabric does not press well, try using spray starch.

Next, fold over and press 1/4" again around all sides.

I need a manicure.  Then, open out the corner.  You should have some nicely pressed crease lines to guide the next few steps.  (I'm using the seam gauge just to hold down the corner; it's not measuring anything!)

To reduce the bulk and get rid of the unwanted point, cut from corner to corner as created by the second crease lines, as shown.  You may want to mark the line (in blue, below), but I usually don't bother!

 Next, fold the fabric at the first pressed crease line on both sides.

Then, fold the tip of the triangle down to the intersection of the second pressed crease line. 

The creases on the folded-down tip should line up to the second crease lines.  Then, fold each side along the second crease line to create the miter.  In the image, below, only the right side has been folded.

Press carefully, and pin if needed.  Then, repeat on the other three corners!  Press again, using starch if needed.

Stitch around the very edge of your hemmed sides.  Be creative with your thread color and stitch selection! At the corners, pivot in the ditch created by the miter.

After stitching, press again.

 Voila!  Beautiful and functional napkins, with a cute miter corner.

 Formal miter-corner napkins

Next up, the formal miter-cornered napkin.  Linen is usually the fabric of choice for formal table linens, so I went with this lovely pale wheat-colored fabric.  For the size of square to cut, there are a couple of decisions to make: the size of your final napkin and the desired width of the edge hem.  For my napkin, the final size is 15" (luncheon size) and the edge width is 1".  So, add 15" + 2" + 1/2" (for 1/4" double hem on both sides) and the final length of each side should be 17 1/2".  Measure and cut carefully.

As with the casual napkin, start off by pressing 1/4" around all four sides of the square.  With linen, which has a more open weave, I found that spray starch is a necessity for keeping the fabric from distorting.  Use liberally, following the directions, of course!

 Then, fold and press the width of your edge hem around all sides (1" here).

 Open up the corner to reveal the fold lines.  Do not unfold the 1/4" crease line.

Next, fold the square in half, diagonally.

Match up the crease lines created from the second pressing and the edges of the napkin.  Pin in place, if needed, but do not press.

Line up the edge of your ruler and the edge of the diagonal fold, positioning the corner of the ruler at the intersection of the crease lines (see below). 

 Draw in the 45 degree diagonal line.  This is your sewing line.

 Sew along your marked line.

 Trim the corner as shown below, which reduces the bulk right in the tip of the corner.

 Turn right side out and use your point turner to make a nice sharp corner.

Open up the seam allowance inside the corner to press.  This will help the corner lie very flat.

Repeat for the other three corners!  Then, topstitch close to the edge, pivoting in the ditch at the corners.

 So pretty! I hope my grandkids appreciate these :)

Much thanks to Britex Fabrics for supplying the lovely cotton and linen fabrics!