Striped Bowline sweater

After making a couple of fancy Linden sweaters (here, here, and here), I wasn't ready to give up my comfy sweatshirt-analogs when the warm weather hit.  Papercut's Bowline sweater was such an unusual design, I couldn't resist!

As an aside, if you haven't ordered a printed PDF from Papercut, do it!  It takes a while to arrive to the US, but the packaging and presentation of the pattern is so worth the wait (and extra cost).

The style of the Bowline sweater is reminiscent of the Drape Drape styles, with a funky, fold-over neckline type of thing.  I'm not sure I assembled it perfectly (the dart is visible, and it seems like it should be more hidden), but it looks pretty interesting, regardless.

I went with the size XS, but I think the XXS would have been better (though it's very comfortable in the oversized fit!)  I did reduce the length of the sleeves by about an inch.

This photo, above, makes it look like I've draped my arm across my chest, but no!  It's in my back pocket :)

As it turns out, this top looks pretty good with my Birdie shorts and I may make a second version with some heather gray knit I've got in my stash.

We just spent a nice vacation in Hawaii; I took photos of my next Britex project there (to be posted on the 30th) and bought a bunch of fabric.  I tore through Fabric Mart and bought 5 lengths of Hawaiian print fabric in about 10 minutes.  I have only the most tentative plans for it all!

Birdie shorts

Even in a world where "Birdie Sanders" is a thing, for me, the word "birdie" will always conjure up the feeling of sheer embarrassment I had during my (poor) performance of my one-line solo in the middle school production of "Bye Bye Birdie".  Isn't it funny that such a seemingly benign word can have terrible connotations for someone!  Unfortunately, there really isn't anything else to name these shorts--Audubon shorts?  Lab of O shorts?  (Any other Cornell alums out there? :)

Maybe there is a bit of the same embarrassment in these shorts as the name suggests to my heart.  I was super excited about this fabric (stretch cotton twill, from Mood), and this project got bumped to the top of the list because I was so in love with the idea of shorts with birds on them.  Now that I'm wearing them, I feel a little bit like I'm wearing the inside of a sleeping bag from the 70s.  Remember those woodland duck prints?  (Go ahead and Google "vintage coleman duck sleeping bag").  Hmm....

Aside from the questionable taste level, the fabric was amazing to sew and wear.  Stretch cotton is so lovely.  The pattern is the Maritime Shorts by Grainline.  Definitely a tried&true pattern for me after making the anchors away version last year.

I pattern-matched the birds only at the front pockets, above (where it was easy, in other words).

The only significant change I made this time around was to sew in some functional back welt pockets (using my tutorial, here).  The fabric seemed more refined, and therefore suited a more formal pocket in the back (yes, I'm still referring to fabric with birds on it--the substrate was refined, not the print!). All attempts to pattern-match the welts were utter failures, so I ended up just trying to avoid birds entirely for the visible welt.

Between the awesome sewing pattern and stretchy cotton fabric, these shorts are wonderfully comfortable and fairly flattering.  Now I have to find/make more tops to wear with them!

Wool knit Linden with lace overlay

If you are visiting from Britex, welcome!  

I was won over by the Linden sweatshirt, designed by fellow Guest Blogger Jen from Grainline Studios, after making it in a sporty quilted fabric.  But the wheels started turning immediately, and I felt like a lace-overlay version would take this basic wardrobe staple up a couple of notches.  

As luck would have it, I was due for my next project with Britex working with one of their amazing knits!  After working hard to narrow down the choices, I decided on this beautiful medium-weight wool knit fabric, in an extra-dark loden (almost black) color.  I'm a sucker for pale pink, so this cotton-blend lace was the perfect contrast.  The image below shows how nicely this wool drapes.  Very luxurious!

The Linden is a super quick sew, and creating the lace overlay only adds a few short minutes (with big impact!).   I wanted to adjust for turn-of-cloth, so instead of cutting both lace and wool exactly the same size, I first cut out the front piece from the wool (in the image, it is shown folded down center front).  I placed the wool on the length of lace, lining up the center front (the fold) with a motif on the lace that I wanted smack-dab in the middle of my finished garment.

Then, the lace was folded around the wool, carefully matching everything up and smoothing the fabric all around.  I pinned around the perimeter to avoid shifting, and cut along right along the wool fabric.  The dark wool is pretty well camouflaged inside the lace!  

After cutting, I carefully opened out both pieces and pinned along the edges, then basted them together.  

From there, the construction is exactly the same, including handling and sewing the neckline and hem binding.

Between this stunning wool knit and the cute lace overlay, this is quite the high-end and fashionable garment!  Such a satisfying project, and good foray into working with both knits and lace.  

Many thanks to Britex for providing the wool and lace fabrics! 

2015 Resewlution, October garment #2

Renfrew top and a neckline conversion

I've made the Renfrew cowl neck top a couple times (here and here), and I love it.  The cowl is more like a floppy turtleneck, so for it to hang nicely, the fabric has to be pretty lightweight and drapey. After sewing up the Renfrew in this cute bicycle print (purchased at Harts, but it doesn't seem to be available at their online store), I realized that the cowl was just annoying.  It's kind of big and bulky, and doesn't lay quite right.

So after wearing it a couple of times, I realized that I could fix it!  I carefully cut off the cowl and used the fabric to cut the neckline binding.  In about 15 minutes, the neckline conversion was complete!

I love that--being able to make a garment into what you want from the start and/or making adjustments when you're done.  

And check out this completely unintentional awesome feat of matching (the arrow is pointing to the head of the rider from the binding matching the body on the shirt--crazy!)

I've made a few other garments lately, but I've been less good about documenting my work--I've got a Britex project (with mini-tutorial) coming up soon, and a Sewaholic pattern hack on the way!

2015 Resewlution, October garment #1 

Quilted Linden sweatshirt

I wasn't particularly excited about Grainline's Linden Sweatshirt pattern when it was released.  It's cool, but I don't wear too many sweatshirts, and I wasn't sure I could make it look as hip as Jen does! That all changed on my last trip over the mountain to Hart's Fabric.  I spotted this a-mazing white quilted fabric and I hightailed it over to the pattern section to nab the Linden.  It was a match made in heaven, and was the easiest decision I made that day at Harts!

I love raglan sleeves and they seem to make garments come together super fast.  I made the process a tad longer by adding some not-entirely decorative stitching along the raglan seams.  Since the fabric is thick and synthetic, I knew ironing would be a relatively useless.  So, instead of serging those seams, I "lightening bolt" stitched them on my regular machine, opened them, and then used my coverstitch machine (with wide-set needles) to finish.  The continuous sleeve-side seam was serged.

The neckline is regular old black poly/cotton ribbing (I bought the tail end of the bolt at the store).  Worked great!  I opted against the ribbing at wrist and waist, and instead went with coverstitching there and at the neckline.   How fun is that fabric?  

For the sizing, I went with 0, grading out to 2 at the hips. Surprisingly, I didn't shorten the top at all, so if you are taller than me (otherwise known as "normal"), you might want to add some length.

This is a super fun, quick pattern.  I've seen versions in normal jersey fabric, but I'm kind of interested in trying out some sweater knits...it's a pretty versatile garment.  I may even size it down a tad to make a normal tee.

If it weren't for the unseasonably warm mid-90s temps we're having in northern California, I'd be wearing this like crazy!  "Winter" will come soon enough, though, and this will be ideal as an outer garment.  

2015 Resewlution, September garment #1

Really Maritime-y shorts

I bought this lovely chambray fabric (Robert Kaufman, Nautique Chambray) because anchors! I had ideas for a skirt which never materialized, and then felt inextricably drawn to the idea of making Grainline's Maritime Shorts with it because, well, anchors.  It's kitschy, sure, but once my mind latched on to that idea, there was no going back.  I could hardly justify buying a shorts pattern (especially since I have one in hand that I like!), except that I felt like if I didn't make *these* shorts, I may never use the fabric for anything, ever.

I am so happy I did buy the pattern!  These are not the same shorts as the others, clearly, the style is significantly different and more versatile, but also, Jen's drafting is just awesome.  After reading some reviews of the shorts being a little on the small side, I cut a size 2, grading up to a 4 at the waist. I made no other adjustments, and I am really pleased with the fit.

I added 2 full inches to the length, but then hemmed them about 1.5", so I'm not sure how much longer they actually are than the original.

I'm not usually one for patch pockets, but I went with the flow, and I kind of love the change of pace! And check out my pattern matching!  Very pleased with myself on that one and I'll be showing everyone my matching bottom :)

In other areas (uh, waistband), I made no attempts to pattern match and it shows :)  I never wear shirts tucked in, so no biggie.

Here's the zip and a glimpse of the insides.  I didn't construct the waistband as instructed, opting for a quicker and less bulky version we learned in pattern-making class--simply serge the bottom edge and sew down from the outside (either in the ditch or as topstitching, as for this garment).  Sometimes if I'm fancy, I'll add bias tape along the edge.  

For someone who doesn't like shorts, I've made a lot of them this summer...this is the end of that trend for this year.   Having satisfied my crazy obsession for really Maritime-y shorts, I can move on!

Sewing PSA of the day: did you know that NPR's This American Life is available as a 24 hour stream? That's what I listen to as I sew.  Give it a try!

2015 Resewlution, July garment #2

Companion Carpet Bag in silk brocade

I can hardly believe I made this bag--I'm just so in love with it!  As my most recent Britex project, I've been thinking about this bag for a while--I picked out the fabric and pattern months ago, and sat down just this week to sew it.  It turned out exactly like I imagined!

First off, let's talk about this fabric.  Guys, that is silk brocade.  It's a wonderful rough-ish-textured, vintage-inspired medium-heavy weight fabric that just screams handbag to me.  For the bag lining, I went a little unconventional and used a comic-inspired print of extolling the virtues of home sewing. I couldn't help myself.

The pattern is by Samantha from the blog At Home with Mrs. H.  I tested the 12" bag pattern for her months ago, and the pattern is part of the Bag of the Month Club (so not available outside the club quite yet). This is the 8" frame pattern, which features outside and inside slip pockets and an inside zip pocket.

The tubular snap-close frame is so much fun, and creates this gaping bass mouth look, that makes you just want to toss the kitchen sink into your handbag.  It's not quite big enough to stash a floor lamp, like Mary Poppins, but close enough.  You can only imagine how much I can hold in the 12" bag (which I made and will eventually post about :)

Unfortunately, the tubular frame must be ordered from Hong Kong, but it is so worth the wait!  I also purchased the faux-leather handles from the same Etsy store.  

The best part is how well this bag keeps its shape!  I used Soft n' Stable for all the outer pieces and a medium weight interfacing on all the lining pieces.  I wish I had used some kind of spray adhesive to keep the outer fabric and Soft n' Stable together, but it still looks pretty nice regardless.

To keep the bag from sagging at the bottom (look--no sag!  And I have all my stuff in there!), I cut a small flexible cutting board to fit (these exact ones), and drilled holes to attach the brass bag feet (not shown in any photos, somehow!).  It worked like a charm.  

I wrote a tutorial for the custom piping along the front pocket and I'll get that up here shortly.  If you're in a hurry, it's over at Britex right now (and while you're there, you can enter to win a subscription to the Bag of the Month Club!).  

Many thanks to Samantha for providing both sizes of the Companion Carpet Bag pattern and Britex for yet again letting me work with their amazing fabrics!