Draped denim day dress

Here it is; the culmination of my draping class at WVC!  When I say draping class, the assumption is that there are going to be, like, a drape of fabric somewhere on the garment, but really draping is just another way to draft a pattern.  Many of the styles we did as exercises were not "drapey" at all, since the method lends itself well for creating perfectly fitted garments.

It looks very simple, but there are some tricky (to drape) and interesting elements to the dress.  Let's walk through it, shall we?  First up is the combination sleeve and bodice. It's essentially a kimono sleeve.  I love the above-bust seam line for us smaller-chested ladies.

The front bodice has a seamed center front and I used decorative red topstitching for fun.

There are princess seams in the front that transition into scoop pockets.

The back also has princess seams that end at the hip.

I topstitched the hem in red and used a red invisible zipper to tie it all together.  The back bodice/ sleeve combination has the same general shape as the front

My original dress didn't fit me because my dress form at school wasn't petite enough (despite grabbing the only petite form in the class), so to adjust, I took up about an inch on the upper sleeve seam, if that makes any sense.

While it's not the most earth-shattering design, it's very me and I kind of love the utilitarian vibe it has.  Also, within 2 minutes of wearing it to the farmer's market, a woman walked over to me to tell me how much she loved my dress and asked where I got it, so that was affirming.  It was pretty amazing to be able to say I designed and sewed it myself!

As a bonus for making it this far in my post, I've also photo'ed my mid-term dress!  It doesn't work on my body, so here it is on the form.  The assignment was to design using bias or other non-straight grain grainline.

The dress opens at the front at the waistline with a snap--it's kind of clunky.  The dress was a complete pain to drape and it doesn't look like I envisioned it, so I'm not thrilled with it.  Let's look at my final project again, since it was a pleasure to work on :)

Thrilled that this is one of the items I'm taking to Paris!

Draped silk blouse

I'm about halfway through my last semester at WVC and I am loving my draping class!  I've taken two flat pattern drafting courses, which were amazing too, but draping to create garment designs is just a whole different skill.   So much fun!

Since I work on a dress form that has a similar bust size as me, I can use certain class drapes as designs for myself.  Here's the original drape from our exercise in class (photographed on my personal form at home, though I did the actual draping on on the good Wolf forms at school).  

This is my first go at using a drape to make a garment out of fashion fabric and I'm so excited at the result (and the prospects for future garment designing!).    I didn't even bother copying it onto paper--I just used my muslin as the pattern.

Obviously, the huge benefit of draping directly on a form is that the result should fit perfectly. The dress forms at school are not exactly shaped like my body (or ANY body, for that matter), so that only works in theory (or for standard sizes).  My own form at home, however, has been padded and altered to be a better representation of the my shape, so I look forward to doing more designing on that.

The original draping exercise in class didn't offer a suggestion for closing the neckline.  I opted to go for a big ol' side bow as my closure, with long ties hanging down in the front and back.  I am in LOVE with this feature!

The fabric is some leftover silk crepe de chine (from this dress) from the 2nd floor (sale items!) of Stonemountain and Daughter in Berkeley.  It's perfect for this design!

We're starting our mid-term project next week and I've chosen something that I hope can be translated into a garment for myself (naturally!).  I suspect there is going to be lots of draping in my future!

  

Astoria sweater + swishy skirt = new fave outfit

This rayon from Britex caught my eye, and I just couldn't shake it.  It's not a typical color palette or print for me, but I had to have it and I knew exactly what I'd make with it: a dirndl skirt.  A dirndl is not my favorite silhouette, but with this fabric, it all just felt like good fun for the summer.

The pattern for the skirt was self-drafted, using the Maritime Shorts waistband as a rough guide.  I getting old and fluffy about the mid-section, so I just can't handle a non-contoured waistband anymore.  The rest of the skirt is literally just two full-widths of the fabric (the back one cut in half for the center back seam/zipper).  

The lightweight rayon allowed for huge volumes of gathers without being very bulky, which makes the skirt extra swingy.  I accidentally walked in front of a fan at a dinner party and nearly had a "Marilyn moment".    But it's fun, and super light--perfect for summer.  

Of course there was only one top option in my wardrobe to wear with this circus-tent print of a skirt, and I didn't love it, so I bought the Astoria sweater pattern (Seamworks).  The slightly cropped, slightly vintage, and really simple design were a prefect match for the skirt.  Love the wide waistband and 3/4 sleeves! 

I made the top in a light-medium weight French terry (not sure where I got it), but I think it must be a blend because it has a lovely sheen to it.  

Applying what I've learned from other Seamwork/ Colette patterns, I made some alterations to the armscye and sleeve pieces, and took in the sides a smidge, but otherwise sewed a straight size 0.  While I would normally do a petite-adjustment in the bodice, I did not and the length was just perfect (For anyone taller than 5'1", you may want to lengthen the bodice a tad.)

I really love how the wide waistband angles out ever so slight at the hem.  It makes a world of difference keeping the top from creeping upward.  The neckband doesn't lay flat, but I think that adds to the vintage feel of the top.

I timed myself once I started and it took 50 minutes to sew--true to the claim that it's an hour project. (And even though I did it all just this morning, I cannot remember if that includes cutting time. Sheesh.)

While the sweater is a bit warm for out current "heat wave" in NorCal and in the depths of summer, it will be perfect for the other 340 days of the year.  I'm already scouting other rayons for more swishy skirts.

Pockets!  It's a little hit or miss with pocket height at the side seam when I'm drafting myself, but these are at a good level.  

So here's the problem with a skirt as "distinctive" (read: loud) as this: I can't wear it all the time!  Kind of a bummer.  I'll be wearing it as much as is socially acceptable :)  

** The fabric was purchased with an allowance from Britex, thereby enabling my addiction to fabric!  

My winter uniform

I should have titled this post "4 skirts from the same pattern + 1 with a slight variation".  However, the reason I sewed 5 skirts in the past 1-2 months is due to a "perfect storm" of three independent events:  on-going discussion I've been having with my good friend of mine + an epiphany I had recently + a tear-inducing haircut, which all added up to = my winter uniform 2016.

My friend Edie has been talking a lot about the idea of a wardrobe uniform.  At first I was very much against this idea--wearing the same thing every day? Gah!--but then I started to like the idea, especially if the uniform was something I could sew (preferably fast).  A tried and true pattern to create an entire wardrobe?  Hmm....

So the epiphany part.  Even though it's not really cold in Northern California in the winter, it still looks silly to wear dresses or skirts with bare legs.  But I hate tights, so I was in a bind.  Until I "discovered" boots.  Boots!  The missing link to wearing skirts and dresses in the winter without looking like an idiot.  I purchased 2 pairs to add to the pair I already owned.

And then there was that day I got a terrible haircut that was so embarrassing that I wore a scarf everyday for 3 weeks, and my uniform was born: straight skirt (from self-drafted, tried and true pattern), fine-gauge sweater, boots, and a scarf.  I almost feel like I should apologize to my students for looking the same every day, but I'm not really sorry.

All of these skirts (except the one noted) are sewn from the exact same, self-drafted pattern that I used to make this skirt for my Patternmaking II class.  You can even watch a video of Tiina instructing her classes how sew it.  I made none of the other garments, except the white "necklace" made from an entire skein of cashmerino wool knitted into an i-cord and then fanagled into a necklace.

You want pictures, eh?

The first skirt is made from vintage viscose yarn-dyed woven fabric, with rayon Bemberg lining.  It's very lightweight and lovely, and will transition to spring well (with cute flats and a short-sleeved top).

Skirt 2 was actually my variation.  I lowered the waistline by an inch, created a contoured waistband, flared the skirt slightly and added a center front seam (which I top stitched).  Boden was a major inspiration for this skirt, which is in 100% wool, with rayon Bemberg lining.

Skirt 3 was made for the unfortunate event of my grandfather's funeral.  I own almost no black clothing, so I was grateful I had a quick pattern I could whip out to make something.  I did wear this with tights--super thick, heavy Smartwool ones--to brave the -20F temps of NY.  The fabric is amazing: vintage black silk, in a subtle plaid pattern.  It's so subtle probably no one can see it.   (Note: for the funeral, I had a black sweater and scarf.)

The waistband was cut from the same fabric with which I sewed a tie for my grandfather and in which he was buried.  I feel so grateful I can sew, so I can do that kind of stuff.  I was also pleased to have been able to press this skirt in my late grandmother's sewing room.  She would have probably been unhappy with my plaid matching, but I think she would have approved of the skirt otherwise :)

While buying the black fabric, I gave in to a temptation I've had for years for this nubby, Chanel-inspired vintage red and cream plaid fabric.  At $19/ yard, I don't know why I waited so long (only a yard is needed, after all!).  I lined this 4th skirt with a heavyish 4-ply silk, because why not?  

The final, 5th skirt came about as I was moving my unsewn winter fabrics back into storage and taking out my summery fabrics from last year in preparation for a new season of sewing.  I remembered wanting to make a pencil skirt from this crazy vintage Hawaiian barkcloth after sewing a pair of shorts a while ago.  This one is lined with rayon Bemberg.   Notice--no boots!  We've had a week of 70s, so I think I can go back to heels or flats for another 8 months.

I've got construction of this skirt down to 2.5 hours, from fabric cutting to hand-stitched hem.  Boom. Unfortunately, in a month I'll be done with teaching and will need another uniform.  Maybe a closet full of these or wrap skirts with boatneck Ts?