Last vestige of summer dress--Vogue 8663

At the suggestion of several readers (thank you for rescuing me from indecision!) for uses for this striped canary ponte knit from Mood , I went with the Vogue.  Here's a refresher of the pattern (Vogue 8663) envelope, now out of stock:

What is most distinctive (and worth sewing, in my opinion) is the pleated neckline.  Finished, the neckline is interesting and flattering without being showy.  Love it.

I had significant fit issues that involved taking the entire dress apart, trimming, trimming, trimming and putting it back together.  The width of the shoulders and waist were the biggest issues, and they still aren't perfect.  See that wavy waistband?  Ugh.  As much as I love the neckline, I can't stand the waistband.  It needs to be slightly tighter to pull the clear elastic a tiny bit, but I think I'm done taking it all apart!

Between the wavy waistband and slight bagginess at the lower back, the dress needs some kind of belt or sash. Apparently, the pattern envelope has a "purchased belt" for a reason.  Some options:

White sash, stolen from another top.

Skinny hot pink belt

Self sash?  

I kind of like the self-fabric sash, since it can be sewn down and not shift (always practical!), but the pink belt looks kind of fun, too.  Self sash + pink belt? :)

Looking at it finished, and seeing the calendar whizzing toward September, I know this was a bit of a silly make.  I figure, I have about two wearings before Labor Day, and then I'll tuck it away until Spring.  But I'll wear the heck out of it next year!

Resewlution 2014: August garment #1

Blue ribbon dress

No, no awards were won for this dress--hope I didn't misrepresent myself there!  However, the fabric (Anna Maria Horner's Flower Circuit in linen) is what I bought with a gift certificate as part of the prize for my winning skirt from Skirt Week 2013! That counts for something, right?  Mostly the print just reminds me of fair ribbons...you see it, too, yes?   I've had this fabric ear-marked for this dress from the start, so it's a shame that it's been about a year sitting in my stash.  The linen is a bit scratchy, but I wore it for the afternoon and it wasn't awful.  The things we do for fashion!

This is my fourth (first, second, and third) versions of the simple and flattering, yet unfortunately out-of-print Vogue V7871.  I altered the pattern as I always do by adding pockets (on seam, using the sweet Jay-Cyn Dottie print quilting cotton):

I also changed the neckline just a bit; instead of a more boat-neck shape, I lowered it to a slight scoop neck. It wasn't as dramatic of a change as I had hoped, but after 4 versions, I wanted something a little different!

I made an effort to match the giant pattern, and it was a failure almost all around.  I've been distracted lately by kids at home and other more major things going on, so my best efforts were not as good as I'd like.  Oh well!  Here's a view of the serious un-matching in the back (along with the wrinkles from sitting through dinner in a linen dress):

For the construction, I used a serger to finish most edges and cut the facing with the dotted cotton with bias binding.  You can see on one of the pockets that I cut into the selvage--why not use those extra fractions of an inch? :)  I also bias-bound the cap sleeves on the inside.  It makes for such a clean finish.

I didn't try on the dress until the very end, to determine the hem length and it fit just right.  I love tried-and-true patterns!  

Resewlution 2014, July garment #1

Knit wrap dress (not quite sure about this one)

So the photos make it look lovely, but truth be told, I'm not sold on this dress yet.  I've worn it, and it's fine, but I'm not in love with it like I had been hoping.  The pattern is Vogue V1027.  For the pattern changes: I reduced the length of the dress by about a foot (mostly to save fabric and because I'm too short for that kind of thing) and reduced the sweep of the skirt like so:

I also changed how the ties were finished, making them more like closed tubes instead of just turning and hemming because the fabric is white on the wrong side, and it was pretty glaring

First off, I should have known better and reduced the excess fabric in the bust region on the faux wrap. Again, standing it looks fine (after I inserted elastic along the front edge to hold it better), but sitting or leaning over (as I tend to do with kids, while teaching, and you know, living) is a different story.  

The fabric (Girl Charlee) is odd.  I've washed it once and it is on the verge of pilling already.  Ugh, I hate that!  But I love the color and the weight is good (medium-heavy), and cotton/lycra is a fave of mine, so I'll just have to wash it less frequently.

On the plus side: pockets!  On the negative side: the skirt is full enough that the fabric on the left side is on the bias by the time you get to the side seam, and the pocket is kind of wonky.  You can see it in the photo above.  It's annoying enough that I'm still considering getting rid of the pockets (gasp!).

You know it kills me to have to post photos of the back of garments?  I seriously don't like this view of myself, but it feels disingenuous to not show all views.  Back to the front!

Well, I'm sure I'll wear it, but I'll probably just be annoyed the whole time :)  Suffice it to say, I'm still on the hunt for the perfect wrap knit dress.  And when I find it, I'll wear nothing else!  Any wrap dress pattern suggestions??

Resewlution 2014, April: garment #2.

All-time favorite dress pattern, in stretch denim

All winter I've been thinking about this particular dress pattern (out of print Vogue V7871).  Last summer, I made two versions (stretch denim and modern linen print) and wore them relentlessly. The pattern fits perfectly, the shape suits my figure, and it looks effortlessly put-together (because, hey, if you've got a dress on you're put-together, right?!).  So I've been thinking up new pocket configurations and looking out for fabrics for a new summers-worth of a-line dresses.

This version is made from a stretch bottomweight from Joann's.  I've seen it in the stores for a few seasons now, and I finally broke down and bought it.  This fabric is incredible.  It washes and dries without needing ironing, is slightly stretchy, and has a nice, medium weight (so I don't feel like it needs a lining).  Seriously, I wore this all day (coffee with a friend, nap with my toddler, trip to the park, etc.) and not a wrinkle in sight.  Still baffled by those that think dresses are fussy--they certainly don't have to be!

I've had this hot pink belt (J.Crew) for a while and knew it was destined to go with this dress fabric, so I went ahead and put some belt loops on the sides to hold it in place.  LOVE.

The pockets are dramatic slashes across the front (note: the original dress pattern has no pockets whatsoever).  Maybe a bit too dramatic, but they are nicely concealed by the busy fabric.  The front of the pocket is pale pink batiste.

For the inside, all edges were coverstitched (and I even was so compelled to change my serger cones to pale pink!).

Back invisible zipper, from the inside (not so invisible here!)

Does this print look like animal stripes to anyone else?  From afar it could be some kind of zebra print, but up close, whoa!  It's flowers!

It feels like such a win to make a fun, versatile dress for under $25 and 2.5 hours.  I'm trying to decide how many versions of the same pattern I can make before it gets weird :)

March Resewlution 2014, garment #3.  (Actually #4, but I'm waiting for the notions for a second version to reveal my "dress bloomers"....so, so excited about that!). 

First day of school, new wool dress (Vogue 8902)

I know, I know...I just had my first day of school.  But that was my own teaching quarter.  As it turns out, I'm also taking a class, and my first day of Patternmaking at a local community college began this past Tuesday!  Of course I had to make something to wear!

(Awkward arm angle to show the side panels :)

Twice a week, I teach my own lab and then drive to another school for Patternmaking class, so my new outfit still had to be professional.  For my sewing time, a single-garment outfit (aka, dress) is the way to go and I chose Vogue 8902 for its interesting design details.  This pattern has multiple bodices for various cup sizes, so I went with cup size A and planned to cut a straight size 10.  I completely spaced and cut the pattern size 8.  Yikes!  In the end, it was just fine, and I even took the sides in a bit.

The design of the dress is interesting--several panels make up the front and back bodice, and they are cut on different grainlines.  The pattern envelope even shows variations with striped fabric.  The result is a nicely fitted dress with some stretchiness, since the bodices and side pieces are on the bias.  Unfortunately, the result is also that the invisible zipper bows out a bit (at least for me, and I redid the zipper 3 times!).  Next time, I might underline the back bodice, with the underlining cut on the straight-grain, to stabilize the zipper a bit.

All the seams are topstitched as they are sewn, so that made fitting a bit more challenging.  Not only did I reapply the zipper multiple times, I also had to recut the back bodice top after I attempted to fit the dress by only taking it in along the center back.  In the end, recutting the back bodice, ripping out lots of stitches and taking it in along the sides worked much better!  

The fabric for the dress is incredible (and from Britex's remnant department!).  It's a very lightweight wool, which is slightly brushed and extremely soft.  It's gorgeous and perfect for this dress style. While the pattern calls for only lining the bodice (what is that about, anyway??) I lined the whole thing with nude-colored Bemberg (also from Britex)

It's not quite warm enough to go with only cap sleeves, so I wore this with a close-fitting 3/4 sleeved magenta cardigan and light pink sparkly flats.  

I finished this in January, so this is garment #2 for that month.  I'm ahead of the game with my "resewlution"!  And for those eagle-eyes out there, I got my hair cut by the time I took the last photo :)