Thursday, January 22, 2015

Camas Blouse by Thread Theory

After making several Thread Theory patterns (peacoat and boxer briefs) for my husband, I was super excited to hear that they were releasing a pattern for women.  And when I saw that it was a not-so-basic knit top, well, I was all over that.   Come to me, Camas Blouse!
Overall the top is just great.  It has a few more pieces than the average knit op, but those small details really make the pattern interesting: button placket, yoke with gathers, and a curved hem.  I sewed the whole top in the same knit fabric, but the original design suggests using a contrast fabric (woven or knit) for the shoulder yoke pieces.  Check out other versions here and here.
I sewed up a size 4 top.  Knowing the v-neck was going to dip low, I shaved off about 1/2" at the top of the front and back (at the yoke seam line) and reduced the sleeves a bit to accommodate the smaller arm scythe.  I also made my standard petite adjustment at the waist.  
For the yoke pieces, there are front and back yokes attach at the shoulder.  However, I ended up combining the front and back yokes into one piece to avoid unnecessary seams at the shoulder.  It worked out great (even with the wacky grainlines).
Even with my new machine (I haven't introduce her yet!) I'm still a bit unhappy about making buttonholes on knit fabric, so I was really excited to see that the directions suggested making faux buttons, which is exactly what I did!  Sewed those things straight through the button placket.
Overall, the top is a bit roomier than I would like, but that's an easy fix.  I'll probably size down to a 2 for the next one, but mostly, I'd reduce or even eliminate all the gathering in the back.  It just looks a bit blocky and blousey on my frame.  Or, it could be the fabric, which is a bit thick.
Oh, so yeah, the fabric (and the elephant in the room, for those in the know).  I used this lovely, lovely knit fabric (Utopia, by Frances Newcombe).  And I oriented it in the wrong direction.  The stripes are supposed to be vertical, but I had it in my mind that the stripes go horizontal.  Since the fabric is a 4-way stretch, it wasn't obvious and still works just great, but yeah, I feel pretty silly.  

Thank you to Thread Theory for providing the pattern and letting me try out.  I am SO hopeful they will continue releasing women's patterns--I love their style!

Am I doing a Resewlution 2015?  I don't know yet...maybe?  If so, January garment #1!





10 comments:

  1. I love this! I saw the pattern, but I didn't realize it was for knit fabric. I definitely want to make one now! Add it to my never-ending list :)

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    1. Yes, knits! But I think you could also make it in a woven, since there is a significant amount of ease.

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  2. Oh it's pretty! And I hate buttonholes on knit too, they're terrifying. Too easy to wonk out. The shirt does look just maybe a size too big all around? But I love this design and it's totally my style too. So tempting!

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    1. I know, right? Even with interfacing, wonky is the only outcome in my mind for knit buttonholes. I truly think that eliminating the gathers in the back would solve a lot of the overly-big fit problems. Maybe even sticking a center back seam in there to pull it in a tiny bit at the lower back. Get the pattern, lady!

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  3. Cute! I actually just sat down on the couch after working on mine, which is also turning out a bit big. May need to unpick the collar and redo, as it's turning into a noticeable issue. Glad you posted yours so I could compare notes!

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  4. So pretty! And I think the stripes would work in either direction!

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  5. I too think the stripes work horizontally. Sometimes when people point out oopsies that I hadn't previously noticed, I think...'oh yeah, I see that now'...but I honestly think the birds can fly either way! I also like that you made the Camas out of a single fabric. You've clearly demonstrated that the design of the shirt looks lovely without the potential fussiness that can come with multiple fabrics.

    I was going to re-design the neckline to shorten it rather than fuss with the arm scythe. For me, I'll probably go about 1 1/2" shorter...

    Big thanks for the link to my Camas Nicole...and bigger thanks to the link to Art Gallery Fabrics! Knits that are actually beautiful! I don't order much online, especially if it's a US company (no offence to the US, it's just a bit of a headache shipping-wise)...but I'm seriously coveting a couple of their luscious fabrics.

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  6. Your 'mistake' looks perfectly fine -- the birds look great horizontal! Also, randomness, but I have this exact same fabric ... as a woven. It's exciting to see how good it will look sewn up based on how lovely your Camas Blouse turned out.

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  7. What a cute top! I didn't even notice the horizontal vs. vertical issue because the print is so cool in either direction. I like the faux button idea.

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  8. I like your upsy-downsy birds too! Just think of them as flying North-South and it makes perfect sense.
    I like the fit changes you make. It doesn't look big but just free and easy to wear. I've been wearing my second Camas almost non stop and need to get some pictures up.

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