After making several Thread Theory patterns (peacoat and boxer briefs) for my husband, I was super excited to hear that they were releasing a pattern for women. And when I saw that it was a not-so-basic knit top, well, I was all over that. Come to me, Camas Blouse!
Overall the top is just great. It has a few more pieces than the average knit op, but those small details really make the pattern interesting: button placket, yoke with gathers, and a curved hem. I sewed the whole top in the same knit fabric, but the original design suggests using a contrast fabric (woven or knit) for the shoulder yoke pieces. Check out other versions here and here.
I sewed up a size 4 top. Knowing the v-neck was going to dip low, I shaved off about 1/2" at the top of the front and back (at the yoke seam line) and reduced the sleeves a bit to accommodate the smaller arm scythe. I also made my standard petite adjustment at the waist.
For the yoke pieces, there are front and back yokes attach at the shoulder. However, I ended up combining the front and back yokes into one piece to avoid unnecessary seams at the shoulder. It worked out great (even with the wacky grainlines).
Even with my new machine (I haven't introduce her yet!) I'm still a bit unhappy about making buttonholes on knit fabric, so I was really excited to see that the directions suggested making faux buttons, which is exactly what I did! Sewed those things straight through the button placket.
Overall, the top is a bit roomier than I would like, but that's an easy fix. I'll probably size down to a 2 for the next one, but mostly, I'd reduce or even eliminate all the gathering in the back. It just looks a bit blocky and blousey on my frame. Or, it could be the fabric, which is a bit thick.
Oh, so yeah, the fabric (and the elephant in the room, for those in the know). I used this lovely, lovely knit fabric (Utopia, by Frances Newcombe). And I oriented it in the wrong direction. The stripes are supposed to be vertical, but I had it in my mind that the stripes go horizontal. Since the fabric is a 4-way stretch, it wasn't obvious and still works just great, but yeah, I feel pretty silly.
Thank you to Thread Theory for providing the pattern and letting me try out. I am SO hopeful they will continue releasing women's patterns--I love their style!
Am I doing a Resewlution 2015? I don't know yet...maybe? If so, January garment #1!