|1. To start, add an additional 3/8" to the "fold" edge of the pattern piece. This is the new fold line.|
|2. Draw two new lines on the pattern: the first 1/4" from the original fold line and the second, 5/8" from that line.|
|3. On the right side, mark the location of the new lines on your fabric at the top and bottom, within the seam allowance. Flip the pattern, recenter and repeat for the left side of the bodice.|
|4. Using the markings closest to the center front, press a crease. Only the right side of the bodice is shown, but repeat for the left side.|
|5. Bring the newly creased edge to match up with the second set of markings. The ruler is illustrating that the created pleat is 1/4" deep--don't iron on your ruler!|
|6. Place rickrack into the crease, pin and topstitch along the edge of the crease.|
Repeat for the other side.
|Then, continue with the rest of the pattern as directed!|
After the SOSM, I feel compelled to show the inside seams of the dress--the shirt and bloomers were done in French seams.
|French seam and 3/8" double hem.|
Bloomers were from Simple Sewing for Baby, by Lotta Jansdotter.
|Bloomers: outside view|
|Bloomers: French seams inside|