Saturday, March 22, 2014

All-time favorite dress pattern, in stretch denim

All winter I've been thinking about this particular dress pattern (out of print Vogue V7871).  Last summer, I made two versions (stretch denim and modern linen print) and wore them relentlessly. The pattern fits perfectly, the shape suits my figure, and it looks effortlessly put-together (because, hey, if you've got a dress on you're put-together, right?!).  So I've been thinking up new pocket configurations and looking out for fabrics for a new summers-worth of a-line dresses.
This version is made from a stretch bottomweight from Joann's.  I've seen it in the stores for a few seasons now, and I finally broke down and bought it.  This fabric is incredible.  It washes and dries without needing ironing, is slightly stretchy, and has a nice, medium weight (so I don't feel like it needs a lining).  Seriously, I wore this all day (coffee with a friend, nap with my toddler, trip to the park, etc.) and not a wrinkle in sight.  Still baffled by those that think dresses are fussy--they certainly don't have to be!
I've had this hot pink belt (J.Crew) for a while and knew it was destined to go with this dress fabric, so I went ahead and put some belt loops on the sides to hold it in place.  LOVE.
The pockets are dramatic slashes across the front (note: the original dress pattern has no pockets whatsoever).  Maybe a bit too dramatic, but they are nicely concealed by the busy fabric.  The front of the pocket is pale pink batiste.
For the inside, all edges were coverstitched (and I even was so compelled to change my serger cones to pale pink!).

Back invisible zipper, from the inside (not so invisible here!)

Does this print look like animal stripes to anyone else?  From afar it could be some kind of zebra print, but up close, whoa!  It's flowers!
It feels like such a win to make a fun, versatile dress for under $25 and 2.5 hours.  I'm trying to decide how many versions of the same pattern I can make before it gets weird :)

March Resewlution 2014, garment #3.  (Actually #4, but I'm waiting for the notions for a second version to reveal my "dress bloomers"....so, so excited about that!). 


Sunday, March 09, 2014

Spring dress in baby wale corduroy (Simplicity 2927)

It's spring!  The doors of my house have been open all day and I'm wearing shorts (these!).  The seasonal distinctions in the Bay Area are minimal, but being from upstate NY, putting away off-season clothing is a hard habit to break.  I just "discovered" my "summer" clothes, and have been raiding the stash this weekend.  I'm fairly desperate for a refreshed wardrobe and I'm fortunate enough to have a job at which I can wear almost anything, from jeans to dresses.  I love that I can pull on a casual dresses whenever I want, and much of my spring wardrobe plans involve new dresses.
This one, an out-of-print Simplicity (2927) has been in my pattern collection for years and this is the first time I've made something from it.  The dress is a good shape, with princess seams, 3/4 raglan sleeves (among other options), and pockets.  I made an 8 for bust and waist, grading up to 10 for hips. I took in the sides and back seams about 1/2 in each, so a 6 for bust may have been better.
The fabric is a springy, but is respectful of a chilly morning in baby wale corduroy (purchased at Fabric.com here).  The flowers remind me of California poppies.  Considering it's corduroy, it's surprisingly lightweight!
Fun, sixties-inspired contoured neckline and vintage buttons.
Love the 3/4 sleeves, so I don't have to cover up the dress with a cardigan, and the tulip-ish faced hem makes them a little more interesting.

Here are some inside photos.  The facings are steel gray Bemberg.  I chose not to line the dress (slightly out of character for me!), initially hoping to wear it with this slip, but the slip peeks out of the neckline peephole!  No matter, the lightness is lovely, and I don't plan to wear the dress with tights.
My three-year old camera helper was a little trigger happy, but this shows the dress in action!
In looking for the pattern online, I came across several other gorgeous versions--love the piping on these versions (Raindrops & Bellyflops and Star's Threads), both making me feel lazy and/or guilty for not using piping!
Resewlution 2014 garment #2 for March!  







Wednesday, March 05, 2014

Renfrew in dotted viscose/lycra knit


If you arriving here from Britex, welcome to Nicole at Home!

I managed my "Resewlution 2014" goal for March (at least a single garment for myself a month) on the very first day of the month!  As a Guest Blogger for Britex, I had the opportunity to use some of their beautiful knit fabrics and a well-loved Sewaholic pattern to make this lovely cowl-neck top (and give some basic tips for sewing with knits!). Since I've made this pattern before (thick wool version and silky wool version), sizing wasn't an issue--I just cut and sewed!
I worked to match up the stripes on the sides, but didn't want them to be completely continuous across the arms, so the stripes there are positioned slightly lower. For the sleeve and hem cuffs, the pattern is also uninterrupted (you can't even tell there are cuffs there!)
This knit fabric from Britex is really lovely.  It's light- to mid-weight (viscose/lycra) so it's slinky-drapey, but has enough body not be annoying while cutting or sewing.  It truly works wonderfully for this pattern, especially for the cowl version.  Check out the other colorway!  And, for my practical side, it washes and dries perfectly!
Here's a view from the back.  The placement of the stripes on the cowl create a large dark swath, but the look from the front makes up for it.

My little boy was working the remote shutter button.

I love this style because it can be dressed up or down, and is super comfy.  I'll probably wear this to work with khakis or a skirt (maybe even this one!)  Overall, another solid top that I'll be sure to wear like crazy.  Thank you to Britex for providing the fabric and thread, and Sewaholic for the pattern!  


Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Vintage wrap skirt and top

Along with a bit of fabric, I scored a few vintage patterns from FabMo.  Not only did I find a fabulous and timeless pattern (raglan top and a skirt with pockets!), but it was my size!  Check it out:
Totally something my mom would have worn in the 70s (right, Mom?).  Here's my version of the lady posing on the left.  (Clearly, I need to practice my unnatural posing skills!)  
The top is a raglan sleeve style.  While I like the style, the top itself doesn't fit great--it's pretty large (despite some alterations) and the neckline doesn't lay quite right, but I like the colors with the skirt, so I'll probably wear it anyhow!  The fabric is cotton knit from the remnant section at Britex.
The skirt is so much fun!  The fabric is a stretch denim in a wine color (from Joann's).  I've used this type of fabric before (pants, here), and it's so forgiving to wear and wash (no ironing!), that I had to snatch up this fabulous color for this pattern.
The only change I made was to add some belt loops to the front, so the ties would stay in place.
The ties come from under the back flap through a button hole in the waistband.
The skirt is fun and comfortable, and I even rode my cruiser bike while wearing it, so I suspect I'll be making a few more for the summer months.  I love vintage patterns!
Resewlution goal met: four garments in February (dress, blouse, and this top/skirt outfit!  Hurray!








Saturday, February 22, 2014

Alma blouse (and sash loop tip!)

My first Alma blouse! Obviously, I'm already huge fan of Sewaholic Patterns, but this blouse truly sealed the deal for me.  With only a slight modification (my standard petite adjustment at the waistline), I cut a straight size 2 and the fit is perfect!
The fabric is a cotton shirting in black and orange stripes (!), but it was free during a visit to FabMo a few months ago.  With only a yard or so to work with, I ended up making the sash from white muslin. I like the contrast, actually!
I love the v-neck detail and little cap sleeves, but I'm also thinking about a silky version with the long sleeves and scoop-neck.  
So here's my big tip of the day--see those little loops holding on the sash belt?  It would have taken a trip to YouTube to remember how to crochet to make a length of "cord" for that, so instead I used my serger! 


Keeping the presser foot down, run the serger, pulling the strands, to create a long length of threads. Using a needle threader, thread a large-eyed needle and sew as normal to create a loop. Seriously, the easiest sash loops ever!
Now go out and make your own Alma Blouse!



Sunday, February 16, 2014

Renfrew cowlneck in silky wool knit

With "winter" drawing to a close in Northern California, time is running short for sewing up the rest of the wool fabric I bought a few months ago.  At this point, I'm not sure I can pull off another pair of wool pants or a dress, and still get reasonable use out of them before they get moved into off-season storage.  But this fabric is lightweight enough to wear for a while, so it moved up to the top of the pile.
I'm not completely enamored with the print, but the fabric caught my eye immediately in a sale rack of vintage knits.  I was drawn to the sheen, and then was absolutely shocked that it wasn't silk.  Nope, wool.  Wool!  The most silky, lightweight, soft, flowy wool knit ever.  
I've made Sewaholic's Renfrew cowlneck before, but this fabric is better suited for the style of this top. I cut size 2 and I love the fit of this top: fitted, but not tight.  I need to try the other neckline versions!
After a few solid years of using my serger, I still don't love using the cutting blade while sewing. So since the Renfrew is designed with 5/8" seam allowance, I decided to trim 3/8" around all the pattern piece edges (except the cuffs and hems) so I could serge the seams without having to using the blade. Maybe sizing down to the 0 would achieve the same effect?
It's been a busy month, but this is my "February" garment (and I have another one to show you soon!).  






Sunday, February 02, 2014

First day of school, new wool dress (Vogue 8902)

I know, I know...I just had my first day of school.  But that was my own teaching quarter.  As it turns out, I'm also taking a class, and my first day of Patternmaking at a local community college began this past Tuesday!  Of course I had to make something to wear!
(Awkward arm angle to show the side panels :)

Twice a week, I teach my own lab and then drive to another school for Patternmaking class, so my new outfit still had to be professional.  For my sewing time, a single-garment outfit (aka, dress) is the way to go and I chose Vogue 8902 for its interesting design details.  This pattern has multiple bodices for various cup sizes, so I went with cup size A and planned to cut a straight size 10.  I completely spaced and cut the pattern size 8.  Yikes!  In the end, it was just fine, and I even took the sides in a bit.
The design of the dress is interesting--several panels make up the front and back bodice, and they are cut on different grainlines.  The pattern envelope even shows variations with striped fabric.  The result is a nicely fitted dress with some stretchiness, since the bodices and side pieces are on the bias.  Unfortunately, the result is also that the invisible zipper bows out a bit (at least for me, and I redid the zipper 3 times!).  Next time, I might underline the back bodice, with the underlining cut on the straight-grain, to stabilize the zipper a bit.
All the seams are topstitched as they are sewn, so that made fitting a bit more challenging.  Not only did I reapply the zipper multiple times, I also had to recut the back bodice top after I attempted to fit the dress by only taking it in along the center back.  In the end, recutting the back bodice, ripping out lots of stitches and taking it in along the sides worked much better!  
The fabric for the dress is incredible (and from Britex's remnant department!).  It's a very lightweight wool, which is slightly brushed and extremely soft.  It's gorgeous and perfect for this dress style. While the pattern calls for only lining the bodice (what is that about, anyway??) I lined the whole thing with nude-colored Bemberg (also from Britex)
It's not quite warm enough to go with only cap sleeves, so I wore this with a close-fitting 3/4 sleeved magenta cardigan and light pink sparkly flats.  
I finished this in January, so this is garment #2 for that month.  I'm ahead of the game with my "resewlution"!  And for those eagle-eyes out there, I got my hair cut by the time I took the last photo :)