In pattern making class, everything we do starts with tracing a sloper (essentially a template of bodice, skirt or sleeve of a particular set of measurements). My sloper set is size 8, so I can't use it for my own clothing, so I set out to make my own sloper. A while back I took a Moulage drafting class, so I pulled out the completely unused products of that (a flat pattern of my exact measurements), my ease worksheets from pattern making class, and drew up front and back bodice and skirt slopers. Just. For. Me.
The collar is a Mandarin style, and I actually pulled out my class notes from last week for this one! See, paper drafted from measurements :) I curved it a bit more by slashing and reducing along the top seam after this initial version.
The skirt is just an a-line, based on the waist length, with a waistband for definition (and a place to put a strategically placed snap!). And of course, I added pockets.
Inside front: pockets are done with French seams and the hem is covered with hem tape. Sleeve raw edges were covered in bias tape. And inside back:
The main fabric is cotton/hemp ripstop (Hart's Fabric, though they don't seem to have it right now) originally purchased to make the Jedediah pants for my husband. Yeah, let's be real: with the fit issues I encountered on the muslin, they weren't going to get made, so why let this good fabric go to waste?!
The contrast fabric is Little Apples Outfits by Aneela Hoey for Moda. Given the stark (perhaps even a bit institutional? :) outer appearance of the dress, I love the sweet pink trim and paper doll-like contrasting fabric on the inside.
Instead of buttons, I went with pearl snaps (mostly out of fear of lining up my placket properly with buttonholes!) Worried about some gaping at the space below the waist snap, I added a hidden tiny snap to keep it closed. Works perfectly!
All in all, I'm pretty pleased with my dress (despite my sour face!). Now I have to find some accessories that soften it up a little bit!
Resewlution 2014, garment #1 for April!
Love the color and style! And I love that it's simple and stylish on the outside with a little fun facing and pockets on the inside!ReplyDelete
Very impressive! I've always wanted to make a shirt dress. I especially love the pearl snaps and Mandarin Collar. Are you taking the class at a local community college?ReplyDelete
I am! The class is at West Valley College, in Saratoga, CA. There'll even be a Pattern Making II class in the Fall!Delete
It's beautiful, inside and out! I love a shirt dress - instantly put together look! I think a lovely brooch would look fab - check out this Australian brand, they do really beautiful wooden brooches:ReplyDelete
Thank you so much for that link! Their jewelry is lovely (faceted wood? Swoon!), and it suits the dress perfectly!Delete
Well done! I'm so impressed that you created your own pattern for this. Great look - enjoy it!ReplyDelete
You are my sewing hero (or rather sewing pixie-hero now that I know just how tiny you really are! :) )ReplyDelete
This is fantastic. It's cleverness beyond what I could currently imagine. Bravo!
Truly, with a sloper, pattern design is significantly easier than it looks! (But thank you! :)Delete
Wow! What a fantastic job! One of my 2104 Re-Sew-Lutions is to draft my own pattern but I haven't quite decided how I'm going to go about doing that. I've considered doing a Craftsy class. Anyway, your dress looks fantastic!ReplyDelete
One of the best books on self-drafted patterns (from your own measurements) is Cal Patch's book, "Design it Yourself Clothes". Also, Deborah's class, Flat Pattern making at Whipstitch is awesome: http://whip-stitch.com/ecourses/course/flat-patternmaking/. Good luck!Delete
You're a pro! I could see myself wear a dress like this. Any possibility of sharing or selling your pattern in the near future?ReplyDelete
What a beautiful job. Lovely fit.ReplyDelete
Great job. You look like you're well on your way to drafting your own patterns.ReplyDelete
you did a super job - great fabric choice, and lovely fit for a first dress drafting!ReplyDelete
wow, super impressive! it fits you so well and is so cute too - love a good shirtdress.ReplyDelete
Very impressed with your gorgeous shirt dress, the fit is amazing and using your sloper was a great way to get there.ReplyDelete
It's lovely. And thanks for sharing the process as I was wondering about a pattern making course.ReplyDelete
Thanks for post! Design Your Own Dress. Design Your Own DressReplyDelete